Afternoon View

Here's a shot of yesterday's afternoon view from the Ube.  First a turtle roll, then cruising home

 

This was a trial run. I think the video is better when aimed at the back of the board. I'll keep experimenting.

Junk

Got a Go Pro yesterday (like Go Pro Glenn). I'm having serious trouble editing the footage right now, so I'm bailing on the effort. Software is junk tonight. Anyway...morning session was slop at Higgins. There was a little kid in the lineup, I don't know maybe 10 years old and 75lbs. He kept telling his mom (on the beach) to hold on.

Afternoon session at the Ube. Better than morning at Higgins. Still nothing special. A lot of close-outs.  On the way out, I felt some pain in my knee. More so when coming back in. I'm having trouble putting any weight on my right leg. Doctor Gabe thinks it's ACL issues. I'll let you know. Glenn just thinks I'm paranoid with a new ailment everyday....true that, but this really hurts and didn't come out of nowhere.

Nice Session

There was a nice swell at Higgins today. Glenn was hot right out of the gate. It took me a while to get my groove on then I started to hit some nice rides. On my last one, a guy in the lineup said, "here you go." That was cool he let me grab this bomb coming my way. I was in great position. As I pop up I see this guy paddling in the trough, wide-eyed. I'm standing atop the wave about to drop in and I look at him and say, "you're all set." I drop straight down and do an extended bottom turn around the guy and swoop ahead of the section to ride it home. Overall a nice session as both me and Glenn left on a high note.

Kookin' It

It was raw,cold this morning so we went to Higgins in our suits--kook style. Hit some really nice ones today. On one, I was up and a good surfer pulled out of the way because it was my wave. That was cool. I never had that happen before. I rode one so high on the wave, I was literally teetering on the lip. Then...after 5 nice rides my day was done. I was paddling out. Doing everything proper and this guy was popping up. I had to ditch my board and plop under water as his board came less than an inch from whacking me in the noggin. On my next two attempts, I'm about to pop up when I hear a "yo." I look to my left and a guy was up and riding--probably about a foot to my left with his board coming straight for my head. Like I said...this happened two waves in a row so I was gone.

3 Boards

Three boards on the surfmobile. Went to Higgins...the shop (fixing my board) was closed so Glenn went surfing. I shot back home to get Glenn's other board.  On the way back to Higgins, the shop was open so I picked up my board...thus 3 boards on the surfmobile.  I didn't catch jack--but Glenn got a couple of nice ones!!!

Sliced & Diced

While heading out yesterday, I sliced (dinged) my Water Hog so Glenn let me use his board which was Water-Logged by the end of the session.



audio: best ride of the day, the belly ride

Party Wave

Two kooks on a party wave


Big Wave Dave & Go Pro Glenn

Not Fade Away

Hit some Thanksgiving waves. Mostly closeouts but dropped in on some bombs. It felt good.

Went out again today and I was exhausted paddling even though it wasn't that tough. That's what long lulls between sessions will do. Anyway...After a longtime of doing nothing, I caught a nice backside where I was riding high on the face before I dropped in. Then I caught a nice front side and really worked the wave. Stoked, I paddled back out and waited for a long time. Then I did my first fade.

Fade: On take-off, aiming toward the breaking part of the wave, before turning sharply and surfing in the direction the wave is breaking.