Hit some Thanksgiving waves. Mostly closeouts but dropped in on some bombs. It felt good.
Went out again today and I was exhausted paddling even though it wasn't that tough. That's what long lulls between sessions will do. Anyway...After a longtime of doing nothing, I caught a nice backside where I was riding high on the face before I dropped in. Then I caught a nice front side and really worked the wave. Stoked, I paddled back out and waited for a long time. Then I did my first fade.
Fade: On take-off, aiming toward the breaking part of the wave, before turning sharply and surfing in the direction the wave is breaking.
Happy Halloween
12 years ago
Glad that you are explaining the terms as you go - ie. "fade"
ReplyDeleteKen