Tuesday, December 3, 2013

Not Fade Away

Hit some Thanksgiving waves. Mostly closeouts but dropped in on some bombs. It felt good.

Went out again today and I was exhausted paddling even though it wasn't that tough. That's what long lulls between sessions will do. Anyway...After a longtime of doing nothing, I caught a nice backside where I was riding high on the face before I dropped in. Then I caught a nice front side and really worked the wave. Stoked, I paddled back out and waited for a long time. Then I did my first fade.

Fade: On take-off, aiming toward the breaking part of the wave, before turning sharply and surfing in the direction the wave is breaking.

1 comment:

  1. Glad that you are explaining the terms as you go - ie. "fade"

    Ken

    ReplyDelete

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