It was raw,cold this morning so we went to Higgins in our suits--kook style. Hit some really nice ones today. On one, I was up and a good surfer pulled out of the way because it was my wave. That was cool. I never had that happen before. I rode one so high on the wave, I was literally teetering on the lip. Then...after 5 nice rides my day was done. I was paddling out. Doing everything proper and this guy was popping up. I had to ditch my board and plop under water as his board came less than an inch from whacking me in the noggin. On my next two attempts, I'm about to pop up when I hear a "yo." I look to my left and a guy was up and riding--probably about a foot to my left with his board coming straight for my head. Like I said...this happened two waves in a row so I was gone.
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