Pasta e Fagioli

Glenn critiqued my ride from the other day. He told me all I do is go down-the-line and I have to start incorporating some turns and maneuvers into my repertoire. So I watched surf video/instruction all day and all night.  Even Ru (surf instructor) says, "it's better to focus on turns than length of ride."

No surf today. Instead I took a cooking class with Marco. We made pasta e fagioli (pasta added later).

Marco also taught me how to make authentic Italian meatballs and meat sauce
http://www.surfingreport.blogspot.com/2011/11/meat-ball.html

Finally

Finally caught a few decent rides and you know I love the belly ride!

Also had a few Neptune Cocktails.


Neptune Cocktail: Huge amount of seawater that sometimes gets swallowed during a wipeout.

Less & Less

You are getting less and less footage of me surfing because I am that bad lately. Anyway I watched a tutorial video this morning by Ru Hill and I tried to do the "up & over" on this ride. I did neither.

I also think the green board is water-logged. I weighed it when I got back. It tipped the scales at 16 lbs. My 9'4" board weighed 14 lbs.

Nonsense

This is two days ago. There were some Big Waves but BW couldn't capitalize. Also went out last night at Higgins. Nothing Video Worthy. I've decided that my whole ride depends on the pop-up and I'm just not that good at the pop-up. Oh well. If at fist you don't succeed,try, try, and try again.

Dings Happen

Had to get the water hog ready for a visit to the doctor. Hey Dings Happen and it's part of the game. Funny how things come full circle. This guy at the surf shop saw me out last night and started talking about my water hog. I told you before....surfing is not all glamour!

Extended Play

What kind of fool changes outside when it's 16 degrees? Big Wave


Tonight you get the extended play so you can check out the sunset and night sky. Not much action because the two hogs kept snaking me. They were bad. I should have just dropped in and taken it up with them in the street. I gotta get my water hog fixed so I can do just that next time.

Good Surf, Bad Surfer

As I go through video footage you would be amazed how often I check my ticker. This is a quick check. Although I had a tough time today....they say it only takes one to have a good session and this was a pretty good ride!!! At the end I tried...I guess, a backside rail grab. Obviously I need work on this maneuver.

We're Going Surfing

Was watching the cam all day and hoping for an evening session. Things were looking grim. Then I saw a guy (on cam) ride a bike to the beach with a surfboard. That was it...I was on my way. You know it's a good day when you are surfing in the snow...WooHoo!!!

Backup

Backup board, backup wetsuit....All my expensive boards get damaged while my K-Mart special is indestructible. Had to wear my old suit 'cuase I've got a nasty rash again and gave my new suit a vinegar bath. I think the rash this time is from all the brown floaties (algae I think) in the water.

While these rides don't look like much--they were Super Fun!



PS--Not Rash on my face--those are the brown floaties

Damaged Goods

Well I got about a 3" crack in my board and there is supposed to be good action this afternoon and tomorrow. So I have to pull out the green board, but I have a lot of work to do to get it ready for the afternoon session.  1st wave (no ride) I just put it in 'cause that's a smooth pop-up for me.

Frame By Frame

Let me explain each section for my non-surfing viewers around the world.

1-A view from the ocean of others catching waves and how you see it. See how smooth they are.
2- I'm up but it's the other guy's wave. It's a left and he's on it first and deeper, but I get off the back of the wave which is what you are supposed to do if you inadvertently drop in on some one.
3-Explaining Go Pro to Ivar's--he is amazed at the battery life and say's "that's fun."
4-Good ride by Big Wave
5-Dropping in on a short-boarder. Major no-no. He could have outrun me and the white-water. I ruined the wave for him. I need to learn how to do a kick-out so I can get off the wave once I'm really in it (or I could look before I pop)--He was cool about it.
6-Happy to catch a wave home. If you notice I keep looking back at this dude. He dropped in on me.

Inside My Head

Had a good day out there. Until I noticed there were 6 surfers in the water. Five really good  Higgins locals and Big Wave. Then I started to get in my own head. I didn't wanna be in their way--whatever. Then a little later there was a group of short-boarders that I felt were swarming me and a sup'er who was stealing all my waves. Like I said...I got inside my own head. These are good rides for Big Wave though.

Worked

Got worked hard this afternoon. This video starts with a real BANG!

Worse & Worse

Hit Higgins for Dawn Patrol. My Sessions are getting worse and worse. Since having the cam I haven't trimmed, bottom turned, angled, or worked a wave...The only thing I do is that stupid slow-motion C turn and a lot of white-water noise. My pop-up work hasn't changed anything so I'm gonna just try and work  the wave (face).  Have a sunrise interlude in the clip...Enjoy.

Juiced

I've been doing it all wrong. Glenn has been telling me my pops are slow and lazy compared to when I first started surfing (from your video Ken). I blame Barry who used to tell me to arch. Well looking at my Go Pro videos...I don't arch. Every wave I catch my chin is on the board. Then I arch during my pop up. Wrong, Wrong, Wrong. I gotta slide into that thing. I've been practicing tonight and I'm nailing it. I can't wait til next outing. I'm gonna be up quick which, in turn, will get me into the wave quick.

So What's Your Point

Hit a morning mush session at Higgins. As if the session wasn't bad enough, my editing is even worse. I had a nice wipe-out section for Madeline (2 year old viewer) that got lost during the edit. If anything...I realize I need to get into the waves much earlier.

No Game

I've got no game. Nice waves this morning, but I couldn't seem to work the wave. Got caught in a routine of pop, drop, and out. The waves were bigger than the video would indicate. Really. Anyway, I've got to eliminate that hop step in my pop-up--problem is my big, fat belly is in the way. Also gotta work on my editing skills. I wanted to loop from :34-:37. I'm really in the wave (rail locked in) and moving at that point.


I had to get out of the water 'cause I was feeling weak and faint. New rule....no more surfing on an empty stomach. I'm pretty sure if you go back to the early days of the blog...I've said that before.

Kookville

I think the pic looks better on the new cam. What a kook session. First off I'm going for a wave and don't pop-up.  I'm on my knees and see Glenn paddling out so I stay on my knees and then decide to stand up--Kookville. No rides for me this afternoon. Glenn caught some nice ones.  On his last one his leash snapped so he was out there with no board.

Fried

I put together a little sample of the morning action so you can see that it's not all fun and games out there. Up until this point you have only seen the glory.



My camera got fried in the water today. You can see by the little circle in the video. Anyway what a fiasco it was to return it, but Big Wave set them str8 and at the Big Box Store and got a new cam. I told the people in line with me, "you know there is a problem when the return line is the largest line in the whole store."

1st Waves Of The New Year

Hit Pine Point for the First Waves of 2014. Surfline called the action very poor. Hey...we caught some waves so all was good.  They were just short rides