Had a good day out there. Until I noticed there were 6 surfers in the water. Five really good Higgins locals and Big Wave. Then I started to get in my own head. I didn't wanna be in their way--whatever. Then a little later there was a group of short-boarders that I felt were swarming me and a sup'er who was stealing all my waves. Like I said...I got inside my own head. These are good rides for Big Wave though.
Happy Halloween
12 years ago
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