Friday, May 21, 2010

Tiny Dancer


"Ballerina, you must have seen her dancing in the sand
And now she's in me, always with me, tiny dancer in my hand"

Samantha performed in "Field of Flowers" and she did very well!!! My tiny dancer was also a Little Page in the Nutcracker Ballet with the Maine State Ballet last holiday season.

The Wanderer


I went surfing at Gooch's Beach in Kennebunk today. This is a very pretty little cove. It was knee-waist high. I picked up a lot of tips by watching other surfers. I was paddling way too early. I also figured out when to pop up. Paddle, paddle, paddle until the wave grabs you. Things started falling into place today. I had one ride where I was actually holding my right rail with my left hand. I did not consciously do this, but hey...I see that in my surfer magazines.

Wow! As I was driving out, the winding Beach Avenue brings you from one outstanding beach to another. It is quaint, picturesque, beautiful....breath-taking New England!!! I would put the Kennebunk Beach Area ahead of the Port.

No fooling around. I get home (I did eat en route) and there were perfect conditions. I changed right in the parking lot. I hit the first two waves I went after. Then I started to cramp up. So I waited and picked the wave I was gonna grab in and sure enough I rode it home. I know, I know, but the Ocean and the waves are very alluring like the Sirens. It is especially difficult to stay away. I think I may put a 4 hr grace period in place.

"Just what you wanted, so you can feel the high"

Thursday, May 20, 2010

My cup of tea

I have had plenty of time to watch the waves and I have determined that knee high to waist high is perfect for me. With that being said, it is still fun to chase the bigger stuff!

Afternoon Delight

While chillin' on the beach I met a surfer girl who is renting a house for the summer right down the street.

On my way to surf this afternoon, I bumped into a contractor working in the building. He said, "hope you have better luck today, I saw you almost got washed into those rocks". Great! So I caught about 1 1/2 waves if you can call it that. Old Orchard is either really flat or pretty rough. When I was leaving I was talking to another girl who is having the same problem as me...getting through the break.

I had a great spot too and then some p-dog comes right out and starts snakin' my waves. He had an old lady on the beach zip him up--pffff. Anyway I ask him, "you're goin' right, right?" Which would have been great 'cause I just cruise in. Go figure, he's goofy.

Morning Session

The scariest part of surfing--the commute. I get so nervous watching my board bounce up and down and slide side to side on my roof as I am driving. I drive in the slow lane and big rigs pass me. I usually pull over at least once to re-secure the straps. The hardest part of surfing--zipping up the wetsuit.

It was good out there today. I stayed on the inside as it was rough. I am having troubles paddling through the oncoming waves. I have to learn to find the channel. My best ride is difficult to explain. After the popup it was as though my board was an inch above the wave so I moved forward and boom down the face--it was awesome.

I think I may have the meanest changing towel. Check it out. I picked this up in Huntington Beach. Today was the first time I used it--much simpler than the dress of a towel I had been using.


There are some nice waves at home right now, but we know better than that. Once bitten, twice shy! Maybe this afternoon. Looks like there are a few honeys on the beach so I guess I'll just go plop a beach chair and chill.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

That's what I'm talkin' about

I knew it was gonna be a good day when I woke up and I could hear the waves rumbling. So I went to ole faithful, Higgins. Surprisingly, nothing. I called my lookout in Pine Point, nothing. I decided to hike it down to Long Sands in York. I couldn't believe my eyes, it was out of control. The sets were non-stop and I was the only one there. Caught a lot of waves. I hit one drop, did one kickout, but mostly a lot of cruising. That's what I do on my big banana boat. As I was leaving, people were honking their horns and throwing me shakas--that was cool.

Upon arriving home, I started to lick my chops. Old Orchard was huge--I had to hit it. Unfortunately, it was too big for me. I didn't catch one ride, I just got tossed. It was a good learning lesson. I was way too tired and hadn't eaten all day. In fact, I was dangerously close to some rocks and I simply couldn't get out of the way. I thought for sure the wave was gonna throw me and my board into the rocks and snap my board. Some how, some way, the wave carried me and my board over the rocks. Lesson learned! I should have known better, the waves in Maine drift you to the left, so start on the left of the rocks Einstein.

Anyway, it was a great day and the girl at the surf shop says tomorrow is gonna be even better and 80 degrees to boot.

I was so spent after the OOB episode that I came in and took a bath. How funny is that. Now I'm just chillin with some green tea and gearin up for tomorrow.

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

Oh, Thank Heaven

All reports came up flat but I had nothing better to do so I went round and round.
While picking up my first Large Red Bull of the day, Cherie at 7-11 told me steel was showing through my tires. So off to get new slippahs for the surfmobile. Check out the surfmobile hangin 10 (with board in tow)

Then I went to Fortunes Rock, Old Orchard, Pine Point, Higgins and Scarborough Beach. Nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing and nothing. When I was at Higgins, I met a couple of Canadians from Quebec. They come down here to surf. How sick is that? They must be bummin'. Fortunately, there is suppose to be some good action tomorrow.

Oh while picking up my second Large Red Bull--the lady at the register said, "you look like you're on vacation." Lately, a lot of people have told me that I look really relaxed. Little do they know, I'm chillaxen!