Morning Session

The scariest part of surfing--the commute. I get so nervous watching my board bounce up and down and slide side to side on my roof as I am driving. I drive in the slow lane and big rigs pass me. I usually pull over at least once to re-secure the straps. The hardest part of surfing--zipping up the wetsuit.

It was good out there today. I stayed on the inside as it was rough. I am having troubles paddling through the oncoming waves. I have to learn to find the channel. My best ride is difficult to explain. After the popup it was as though my board was an inch above the wave so I moved forward and boom down the face--it was awesome.

I think I may have the meanest changing towel. Check it out. I picked this up in Huntington Beach. Today was the first time I used it--much simpler than the dress of a towel I had been using.


There are some nice waves at home right now, but we know better than that. Once bitten, twice shy! Maybe this afternoon. Looks like there are a few honeys on the beach so I guess I'll just go plop a beach chair and chill.