I caught a half dozen waves today--more than usual. I am now reminded...Kimi in La Jolla and Drew in Kaua'i would bark at me, " paddle, paddle, paddle!" I'm starting to get it.
So I'm wrapping up my session by changing and out of nowhere is a girl. This seems to be a common occurrence. So much so that I am considering ditching surfing altogether and just start getting in and out of my wetsuit all day long. No, who am I kidding? I'll be surfing tomorrow.
Happy Halloween
12 years ago
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