Newton's First Law of Motion

A body at rest will remain at rest... And a body in motion will remain in motion...
I hit three nice rides today but missed a boat load. I even did a few baby turns. Back to the subject at hand. I am missing a ton of waves because I am a body at rest. I need to paddle much harder to get my board/body in motion to match the speed of the oncoming wave. I am sure if I can get boogeying I will catch the waves. There is a lot of stuff to put together. I left after a good ride. That's the object, to always leave after a good ride...never paddle in.