Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Granite State


I went down to The Wall in NH. By the time I got in the water, the waves were breaking much too close to the wall. This is a low tide spot. I proceeded on to Rye Rocks. The other day I wrote that being in a lineup with 35 people is pressure. Again, I was mistaken. Pressure is being in the water with 5 other people all who have shortboards. These guys were doing cutbacks and one guy in particular was doing 360's on the wave. I couldn't go after anything. I had no right being out there. As I continued up the coast, I saw Jenness Beach. That's where I should have been.



I pearled hard (intentionally) at The Wall, just to get out of there. And I got on my knees twice at Rye Rocks because when I asked the other guys if there was anything to watch out for they told me, "just make sure you don't go in head first." The call it Rye Rocks for a reason. I didn't dare pop up in fear of pearling.

Both pictures are at The Wall--the second one is obviously The Wall

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