Unconditional Surrender

What did we learn today? There is no surf on the Gulf Coast. At least that's what everyone tells me. Went to Longboat Key, Siesta Beach, Turtle Beach, Caspersen Beach, Venice Beach and Lido Beach. At Caspersen Beach people are collecting Shark Teeth.

So tomorrow, I'm headed to Cocoa Beach on the East Coast. I'll probably be shooting over each day. We'll see. Old Orchard and Higgins blows the Gulf Coast away (as far as surf is concerned).

Bust

No waves at Cape Hatteras. Met one guy from NJ who was gonna go out. I was gonna join him but couldn't find a shop open to rent a board. The waves were probably rockin' back home. I'm now chillin' in Florida. Hopefully they'll be some good action this week.

In my room, on top of the armoire is a framed photograph of a surfer (silhoutte) riding a thick wave. My dad never knew it was there. My mom put the picture there. Weird. Hey I'm in the surfer suite.

Florida Bound Via Hatteras

Rolled in around midnight to Kill Devil Hills Beach, NC. Major delays (took 6 hrs in NJ). When cruising in to the OBX there's a billboard..."No Shirt, No Shoes, No Problem." No Doubt a surfing community.

Off to Cape Hatteras although it looks like there's gonna be no surf action today. Worst case, It's rated 4th nicest beach in America

pic is of Kill Devil Hills Beach aka Nags Head

Holiday Cheer

I must have been good 'cause Santa brought me some waves. The crew was hoot'n and holler'n, just havin' a good time. One guy said, "The Ultimate Christmas Party!"--right on.

Merry Christmas to All!!!

Brilliant

You know who is smart? The scratch. People say don't scratch it will make things worse. Ah, but the scratch is so tempting. It offers temporary relief. Ah, the scratch--you feel so good. How can I resist you. The scratch is very smart.

It Only Takes One

Well I still got a rash. The good news is it's only on my hips and neck and it's tolerable. The hips is weird, I must waddle when I paddle for the waves. Many people experience wetsuit rash on the neck so I'm not too concerned there.

Man, I have never worked so hard for so little. I was missing every wave. I kept looking over my shoulder to see if Ken was filming, 'cause that would explain it. Ah, but I would soon be reminded...it only takes one good wave.

Even better news. The days are getting longer. You know what that means? Time to catch one more wave.

Scuba Gear

"Testing, attention please." I went surfing the scuba shops. I ended up with a full body rash guard (basically a wetsuit under my wetsuit.) Either I'll be good tomorrow or I'll be bummin'.

Right now it doesn't really matter 'cause I rode some waves today. Only caught four but three of 'em were real dope. It was also snowing so that was cool.

Pilgrimage

Excerpt from "Riding Giants"

"When I was in school, I was flunking French and my teacher said, 'what are you gonna do when you get out? When you graduate? You know you have to pass this'...

I said, I'm gonna go surfing. I'm going to the North Shore. I'm gonna make my pilgrimage to the North Shore. I'm gonna ride big waves and if I don't die, then I'll figure out what to do...

I'm going there to ride big waves, to find out who I am."--John Milius

Ease the Pain

I'm watching these two surfers and they're not catching waves. They're popping up way too early. Seeing them miss the waves pains me more than this rash. So I went out to give them some friendly advice. What really fries me is that there was a good surfer right next to them and he never offered any help.

While on the beach, a lady pours a bottle of water into the ocean. It's water she just brought back from Hanalei Bay. How dope is that! Now there's a little bit of Aloha in Old Orchard.

Pure Torture

As I look out my window, I see a guy headed out to surf. I on the other hand am finishing an oatmeal bath and dousing myself with Calamine lotion.

Done

My rash is back twofold.

All Lubed Up

The waves have been insane the past three days, however, there was no getting out Monday & Tuesday. I watched two guys try to paddle out for a 1/2 hr yesterday before giving up.

Secret Spot! I found a secret break today. The waves are alright, but the food is fabulous. After the surf, I was treated to some incredible pasta fagioli and a homemade ham sandwich to die for. I'll probably hit this spot everyday.

Yeah, today was the first day in my new wetsuit. I lubed up real good with some Vaseline. It's almost been a week since my last wave and paddling was tiring today--I was huffin' and puffin'. My niece asked me what I wanted for Christmas. She also told me that she only had $10 to spend. I should've asked for a tub of Vaseline. Instead, I asked for a stick of wax. That should keep her way under budget.

Xcel

The people at Xcel are cool. They're gonna call Liquid Dreams tomorrow and issue a credit on my wetsuit. They think I may be allergic to the Bamboo fibers in the suit. Xcel is located in Oahu, the surfing capital of the world. They don't fool around. "Good Service is Good Business."

I know, all the women have been telling me, "Big Wave you have very sensitive skin."

Did I Mention Nasty?

I have a nasty rash all the way from my head to my toes and I mean everywhere--Nasty!
I'm on my way to the surf shop to pick up some rash guard shorts. They brought 'em in overnight for me.

I caught one wave this morning where the wave was barrelling over my board. If it were a big wave, I would have been in the tube. Seriously,I was trimming the wave and my board was in a mini tube.

Goo Goo G'Joob

Ended today's session at 5:00 under a crescent moon (sunset was at 4:06). There is only one danger at Higgins, a set of rocks. I was being swept awfully close to the rocks. Here comes a nice right hand wave...I had to go for it. I'm up and headed straight toward the rocks. I had to swerve around the rocks--it was pretty cool.

I've just changed outdoors in 23 degree weather wearing a flannel shirt, jeans, and no socks. At the store, I see a guy wearing a knee-length wool coat, a scarf, and leather gloves. We're both coming home from work. I like my job.

"I'm not going to change the way I look or the way I feel to conform to anything." - John Lennon

Going Global

Here's the skinny. Good small waves at home, but I went to Higgins instead. Even smaller at Higgins. Caught 4 and bolted. Drove home in my wetsuit. I'm not getting in and out of this thing any more than I have to. Got home and some old time surfer from Tejas starts talking to me. By the time were done, it's closeout city.

Here we go again. I've developed a serious wetsuit rash (check out blog entry "sidelined" June 16,2010). I guess this happens (to me) when they're new? I think there's some chemical or something that needs to be flushed out. My suit is gonna take a nice long bath tonight. Wow, I'm itching all over.

I just realized my blog has a stats page. I've got hits from: Canada, Indonesia, Spain, South Africa, Singapore, Latvia, Germany, Russia, and Slovenia. The surf report is going global.

New Rules in Effect

Early curfew the night before surfing. I caught the first three waves and then I was burnt toast. I was spent. I was up too late last night. Surfing takes a lot of energy you know. Especially getting in and out of that crazy winter suit.

Although...I didn't have my Monster energy drink this morning. Hmmm. The curfew may be postponed until more research is conducted.

Sloppy

It was sloppy throughout the whole State. I'm getting smart though. I called all the surf shops to see how the conditions were at their break. I ventured out to Doc Browns. Legend has it that Doctor Brown had to stitch up surfers as they got washed up on the rocks, thus the name. I saw this horse on the way there.

Then I went to scope out Prout's Neck. This is where Winslow Homer painted many of his masterpieces. I think it would be cool to surf out there. Like Kauai, there are crazy chickens on the way to Prout's.


I saw a few yahoos try to go out at Higgins, but I knew better. There's no way they were gonna get out through the slop.