Pilgrimage

Excerpt from "Riding Giants"

"When I was in school, I was flunking French and my teacher said, 'what are you gonna do when you get out? When you graduate? You know you have to pass this'...

I said, I'm gonna go surfing. I'm going to the North Shore. I'm gonna make my pilgrimage to the North Shore. I'm gonna ride big waves and if I don't die, then I'll figure out what to do...

I'm going there to ride big waves, to find out who I am."--John Milius