What More Could You Want

It was perfect out there. Magic Dick Weed...um, I mean Sea Weed was calling for flat, flat, flat. Good thing I have my own sources, primarily my windows.  It was sick out there and I was the only one to boot. Apparently no one else has my secret source.

I was rocking waves all day. Had some cool spills as well. Caught one where I was riding the bowl and tried to swoop in with it. I swooped right onto my side--belly flop style. On another I tried to do some funky move and almost blew out my knee.  All good and all in a day's work. Keep on Rockin' in the Free World!

That's What I'm Sayin'

Can I get a Woohoo? Was struggling for a while, but so was everyone else. Then I caught this mean wave. (Ken if you're still reading I rode it from the red roof to Camp Comfort). The wave was sick and I was working it. It was my longest ride by far and it was a right. I hung out at Camp Comfort for a while thinking I'd catch a left back, but hey rights were coming. Then I popped up, went down the face way to fast, did a bottom turn and got back up high to trim the wave....Woohoo!!! It's about time!

Unleashed

Well there you have it. My leash snapped. For the third day in a row I had to go swimming after my board and yet another session ruined. Worst of all, I took an online poll and voted that I would not go shopping on Black Friday. I went and got a new leash.  Hopefully I hit something tomorrow cause there's gonna be a long dry spell coming.

Bombed At Bayview

Went out again after Turkey-Time. We went to Bayview aka Babyview thinking we'd catch something.  Like everywhere else they were crashing way too hard. We were the only two fools out there. My leash came undone and I lost my board again (I gotta look into this). Glenn nearly got crashed into the rocks. We decided enough was enough. I woulda posted this yesterday, but went to my 2nd Thanksgiving and was--Nighty Night or Laku Noc.

Getting Goofy After Getting Bombed

This is Glenn's surfmobile

That's What I Ride

Not really...I tried Noreen's August 9'4 "That's What I Ride." It's 'spose to be a Cadillac, but I couldn't drive that thing. So I pulled out my board which meant I had to paddle through the muck twice. Glenn's all gung ho. He wants to go out early every morning whether it's good or not.  Even though the time to be out there today is in the afternoon.  It's good though--he's stoked and it gets me out. Gonna try and hit it again around 2:00 when we shoulda been out in the first place.

Wished Dragana (second employee who never made it) a Happy Thanksgiving. Not sure if she knows about Thanksgiving or not.  Anyway Happy Thanksgiving to all viewers!

Peace Out!

Take Your Beating Like A Man

We got worked hard at the Ube. Halfway out my board went shooting towards shore as my leash came undone. After an hour of trying to get out we rolled. I'm teaching Glenn all of my tricks. We cruised on down to 11th Street. There was good action. Man, I'm having troubles, but think I've finally figured it out. Arch like a mofo!!!

Should have a killer pic, but neither one of us had our phones.

Just Drop-ping By

The Surfmobile was cold this morning.

I having troubles out there. Just when I was thinking it's time to get a new profession, I hit a nice left. Other than that--same ole, same ole. I'm like a beginner again.Glenn and I went out with new techniques too. We were gonna keep the bumper low to the road. Oh well.

Glenn hit his first drop today---Wooooh! and rocked a couple of others.

Low-Entry Rocker

We went to Higgins today. Caught one wave where I was working the wave and that was it. Couldn't catch anything else. I asked this young silver-haired monkey how he was catching everything without even paddling. I mean he would catch a little bubble. Anyway, he told me his board had low-entry rocker. Whatever. Plain talk...I just suck!!!

On two tries I was gonna catch a wave and this French (Bleep) would snake out front of me. I shoulda barreled his (Bleep, bleep, bleep), but I didn't. Next time I will. Looks like there's a new snake in the lineup. Maybe I should  low entry his rocker.

W(rapping) Up

Just finished washing my wetsuit from yesterday's session--which was awful. Glenn and I played the "round & round" game first going to Fortunes Rock where there was absolutely nothing. [Glenn is my new surf partner who I met a few weeks back and also lives on Seacliff]

Anyway we rolled up to Seacliff and saw "the poser's" car at the beach. This guy has a sexy long board that always rests atop his car. His car never moves and no one has ever seen him surf. Well we did and he is no poser. This guy rocks. First wave he is walking the board and hanging 10.

My session was awful. Couldn't catch anything. The waves were perfect little rollers too. Glenn, on the other hand, was rocking everything in sight. I'm glad he got some good action.  Go back and see my blog entry of April 18, 2010 titled, "Yeah" where Gerry Lopez describes the feeling of others catching a wave.

These are my cookies from the other night. Not bad for a first timer.

It's A Great Escape

Apparently that's me and Glenn heading out at Higgins. There were at least 35 people in the water and a bit congested at times. One cat had a Bob Marley board (it looked pretty dope). I caught one where I was ahead of the curl so I turned back towards the break and then turned into the face again before a little rock n roll action. Granted it was all in slow motion. I mean all those moves happened very slow.

Upon leaving this paparazzo is snapping pictures of me changing. I told her, "no pics til the spring." We're hoping for some action this afternoon--not likely, but one can hope. Tonight's agenda...Baking Sugar Cookies with Bob!

Double Dose

The waves were crashing hard all day. Unfortunately we got out about an hour too late this morning. There was simply no way out. After getting out, I was toast. It was one and done. It was a weird one too. I was up and my board was completely out of the water. Then I slapped down hard on the wave. I don't know if I wasn't angled for the wave or if my board was too long. Either way, I was done--I wasn't paddling through that war zone again.

Afternoon session was much more manageable. Caught three, but only one of note. Tomorrow should be another good day. This daylight savings (or opposite) is killing my mojo again. It gets dark way too early.

Hey Baby...

"There ain't no easy way out
and I won't back down..."

There were some good waves out there today. They lacked the power though. I hit my first drop in a long, long time so that was cool. Forecast looking good. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. What did I say, drop 50lbs? More like 60. Large and in charge.

Near Death

Chilling on the beach (watching Glenn SUP) I hear this thud right next to me. A seagull dropped a clam within five feet of me. I think he was aiming for me. Great, now I'm gonna have to start wearing a hardhat to the beach.

PS Wish I had some surfing news.

Recession/Regression

Went to Higgins tonight. There was a good crowd. I'm basically riding the white wash 'cause I can't do much else. It's like starting over. Fact of the matter is I gotta drop like 50lbs--straight up.

Thursday 'spose to be some sick overhead waves. Now we know that never happens, but one can hope. I'm getting the green board ready.

Holding Court

Big Wave in the House. As I surfed in (around) Barry...he said..."Woah Dave, really filling out that wetsuit."  Ain't that the truth.  Anyway...next wave I went right in the lion's den. A well known wave hog was going for a wave (and so was I). I had the right of way and there was no way I was backing down. They were going right and I was going left. The wave was a left so I held my ground.

Anyway, I decided...what have I been thinking....all I wanna do is surf. Didn't I already know that? What's wrong with me...

Too Weak

Phew. Just didn't have the paddling power for the afternoon session. Had trouble standing up. Just out of surfing shape. I think if you go back to the early days you'll see I had the same problem when surfing in the morning and afternoon.  Gotta get back in surfing shape.

Coming out of the water a guy asks, "did you used to play for the Orioles?" I said, "How'd you know?" and he told me the girls told him.

Shake, Rattle & Roll

I was a bit shaky out there. First attempt, I face planted right into the wave.  Second attempt..I was a little rattled and still shaky. Third attempt--Rock n' Roll Baby!

Yesterday was the day to be out (Post Sandy) but  today was good. They say it will be good this afternoon as well.  Hopefully I make it out there.