Holding Court

Big Wave in the House. As I surfed in (around) Barry...he said..."Woah Dave, really filling out that wetsuit."  Ain't that the truth.  Anyway...next wave I went right in the lion's den. A well known wave hog was going for a wave (and so was I). I had the right of way and there was no way I was backing down. They were going right and I was going left. The wave was a left so I held my ground.

Anyway, I decided...what have I been thinking....all I wanna do is surf. Didn't I already know that? What's wrong with me...