We went to Higgins today. Caught one wave where I was working the wave and that was it. Couldn't catch anything else. I asked this young silver-haired monkey how he was catching everything without even paddling. I mean he would catch a little bubble. Anyway, he told me his board had low-entry rocker. Whatever. Plain talk...I just suck!!!
On two tries I was gonna catch a wave and this French (Bleep) would snake out front of me. I shoulda barreled his (Bleep, bleep, bleep), but I didn't. Next time I will. Looks like there's a new snake in the lineup. Maybe I should low entry his rocker.
Happy Halloween
11 years ago
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