The waves were crashing hard all day. Unfortunately we got out about an hour too late this morning. There was simply no way out. After getting out, I was toast. It was one and done. It was a weird one too. I was up and my board was completely out of the water. Then I slapped down hard on the wave. I don't know if I wasn't angled for the wave or if my board was too long. Either way, I was done--I wasn't paddling through that war zone again.
Afternoon session was much more manageable. Caught three, but only one of note. Tomorrow should be another good day. This daylight savings (or opposite) is killing my mojo again. It gets dark way too early.
Happy Halloween
11 years ago
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