Finally

Finally the weather broke and Big Wave had some action. It was only 66 degrees, but it felt like 80. I think, actually I know, that people were sick of being cooped up inside and were itchin' to get out and about. I had one girl who told me she's been waiting all winter for a Fro-Ho-Cho. How cool is that? Another girl told me the Fro-Ho-Cho was mad good. I liked that 'cause it reminded me of when I called Fred mad crazy.

It's Official

Big Wave made his first sale of the year.  Ice Cream of course. That's my bread and butter. It's a nasty Memorial Day Weekend. Weather is in the high 40's low 50 and rain, rain, rain. Did better than I thought I would considering the weather and lack of people so that's a plus.

Native American Blessing

Vijay performed the second annual ceremonial blessing for Big Wave's. I asked him to play "many trinkets," but he told me that is not the nature of the blessing. I have to agree. However, I do hope for many trinkets this year.

Hey Yo Big Wave

People have been asking, "Hey, Yo, Big Wave what's up? How come there haven't been any surfing blogs?"
Well it's that time of year again and Big Wave has been getting his shack ready for another season. I open up next Friday the 24th. Weather not looking good right now, but let's hope for a hot booming summer!!!

Dump Permit Required?

I'm not sure if Ogunquit requires a permit or not. Every time I popped-up I got dumped hard. I was sitting real close to the black tees and they were big boy waves today. Too big or too powerful for me. Once going right I got smacked by the lip and just got held down. On my last attempt going left, I'm up and I think the same thing happened. I went flying ahead of my board and my teeth smacked real hard.  Thankfully no damage. I got worked over and over again. Today was the first time I covered up and protected myself with every spill (thanks to the safety advice from Mike in Hawaii). When changing these two locals kept giving me looks. I think the first time I also experienced mild localism.

PS--taking off my wetsuit I opened up my skateboard wound. I think today's session was a worse beating than the skateboard wipeout. I was seeing stars the whole way home.

Soft Shoulders & Shore Pound

You had to be right in the pocket today 'cause the shoulders were way soft--super soft. If you weren't right at the peak there was no ride. Even when there was, I dunno, it was pretty shaky. As soon as the wave would approach, I would look ahead and see a big shallow trough ahead of me. Pretty Scary--so I was very apprehensive. So much for the attack mode today. It was survival mode. Even coming in I got tossed hard  by the shore break and held under (the longest I've ever been down--round and round). Looking nice and clean out there though and should be dope this afternoon.

Right Frame Of Mind

Nice Action Photo

Went out with a new mindset today. I figure I'm out there between an hour and an hour and a half so I'm gonna go after everything hard--attack the waves. That didn't help. I still started out slow. Then I see this orca out there and she's killing it--catching everything is site and rocking 'em. Eventually I started to catch some. About a half dozen rides but nothing worthwhile. My last ride was the best (which is not saying much).  This green board is in my head. I'm way over thinking it and overly concerned with my position on the board. At the end of the day...
"Same as it ever was, same as it ever was"

Took Mark skateboarding yesterday. He's way better at boarding than surfing.  That's him riding Seacliff.

Shoulda Stayed Home

Called around to see where it might be working today. One shop told me they thought Gooch's would be the best because of the winds. Also the Chill Fest was spose to be going off today. Chill Fest is a surf contest that was scheduled between November and March depending on conditions--and they chose to have it today. We got to the Bunk and...well...There's Never Been A Wave That Glenn Didn't Like.

This had to be the worst wave I've ever been out in. The waves were doubled up, swirling left, swirling right--pure junk! I shoulda called the surf shop back and asked, "Where'd you get you information from?" With that being said I did catch a somewhat decent little ride. Shoulda stayed home. I think the waves were better. Oh well.

Stopping at the convenience store on the way back one guy says, "I thought you wiped it? So I showed him my battle scars. The other guy says, "Why don't you come back with your protective gear and put on an exhibition in the parking lot?"  I told him I just may do that. When I got my coffee there this morning another guy was asking me/telling me about my skating wipe-out. How news travels.

Oops!...I Did It Again

Helmet, Knee & Elbow Pads

Went out skateboarding again yesterday morning. Nothing serious...a little path I scoped out. I'm taking a left and hit a patch of sand. Do you know what happened next? Yup...Big Wave bit it again. This time I got road rash on my left side.  Once bitten, twice shy. Well actually twice bitten, twice shy. So I got some protective gear. After that I started skating Seacliff with Glenn. Now I probably don't need the gear for Seacliff, but I wore it anyway. A guy walking by looked at me and asked me if I lost a bet. That's how stupid I look, but I don't care. I mean no one wears protection on a longboard.

Goddess

Checked out all the spots today, but the winds weren't working with us

. It was blowing everything out. On the way home we stopped at a surf shop and I picked up the Goddess (that's the name of the board) so now I'll be able to surf the pavement when there's no action.

Update 7:15--Big Wave bit it hard. Went down SeaView and had too much
speed. I didn't see an out so jumped off board and tried to run.  I also skinned my hip, elbow, and ribs.  Big Wave will be a hurtin' unit tomorrow

It's Always Something

Shot over to Higgins--good choice on my part--it was pumping. The whole gang (of good surfers) was there. I catch the first one out of the shoot. I'm up going right and a guy drops in on me. He saw me and pulled out of the way. I've never been in that position and wasn't sure what was gonna happen so I kinda pulled out during my bottom turn. Caught the next two out of three. I was going good and then I started thinking about that first ride--what I should have done and I was all down hill from there.

I had this sweet right all lined up and I popped-up too soon--blah!!!  After a few missed attempts, I finally pulled it together and started getting some more waves (some bombs too), but now all of a sudden I'm getting way to aggro (surf lingo for aggressive) on my bottom turns. I need to really slow it down. I mean on one I was going left and literally did the letter U. Down and tried to go way back up--double blah!!! Another habit to break before it forms