Shot over to Higgins--good choice on my part--it was pumping. The whole gang (of good surfers) was there. I catch the first one out of the shoot. I'm up going right and a guy drops in on me. He saw me and pulled out of the way. I've never been in that position and wasn't sure what was gonna happen so I kinda pulled out during my bottom turn. Caught the next two out of three. I was going good and then I started thinking about that first ride--what I should have done and I was all down hill from there.
I had this sweet right all lined up and I popped-up too soon--blah!!! After a few missed attempts, I finally pulled it together and started getting some more waves (some bombs too), but now all of a sudden I'm getting way to aggro (surf lingo for aggressive) on my bottom turns. I need to really slow it down. I mean on one I was going left and literally did the letter U. Down and tried to go way back up--double blah!!! Another habit to break before it forms
Happy Halloween
11 years ago
Gerry Lopez quote is real deep man. I have had a lot of good feelings doing different things but catching a decent wave is just on a entirely different level. For that brief period in time anyway. Yeah dude
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