Soft Shoulders & Shore Pound

You had to be right in the pocket today 'cause the shoulders were way soft--super soft. If you weren't right at the peak there was no ride. Even when there was, I dunno, it was pretty shaky. As soon as the wave would approach, I would look ahead and see a big shallow trough ahead of me. Pretty Scary--so I was very apprehensive. So much for the attack mode today. It was survival mode. Even coming in I got tossed hard  by the shore break and held under (the longest I've ever been down--round and round). Looking nice and clean out there though and should be dope this afternoon.