Field Trip

House on right was my marker

Went to the Wall (NH) today. It had a stellar forecast! Don't believe the hype. Not as good as predicted, but still very, very good and very clean. I hit 61.5% of the waves I went for (8 out of 13) all lefts (backside) except for two. Today, I was the Hunter. On three rides I paddled out cause I saw the wave rising, turned real quick, took a couple of paddles and I was up and riding. I was real aggressive out there today. Like I said, I was the Hunter (usually I'm the hunted). I caught two steep drops which were cool. My board was planing out of the water (felt like just the tail was in the water). When I popped up, it couldn't help but go down--and down it did. Save the best for last--caught a mean left and it was time to go.

There was one guy out there who had a motor on his board. He never had to paddle out and when a wave was gonna close on him, he just hit the motor. I was talking to a couple of kids from Quebec after and we determined that the motor isn't really surfing.