No Business

I had no business being out there. With that being said, I paddled out no problem and went for a bomb. Shoulda hit it, but somehow, someway I've gotten into this bad habit of going to my knees on big waves. I guess I've gotten scared between here and there. I've gotta break this habit--never use to do it.  Once on my knees, I'm killing myself for not popping up. This wave woulda been so dope and I chickened out! After that there was no way getting back out. I'll get ready for the afternoon. This was at high tide and it should be pumping all day.

(One Hour Later) I think I've figured it out. I don't have my longboard so I'm not looking down a plank when I'm getting ready to pop-up. Instead I'm looking down the wave. No security blanket. "I don't need no security, I just need me some peace."