Super Stoked

First off I had to hit the surf shop. My board hasn't had any bite to it. I had to get some new fins. Basically, they give you the cheapest fins with a board and mine had no hold. When I walked into the shop, Mark (shop owner) asked me if I've been anywhere exotic lately. It was pretty cool especially since I haven't seen him in a long time.  He remembers my Hawaiian and Californian adventures. I told him yeah, "I'm about to hit the Rivermouth."  I surfed the Main Beach in Ogunquit before, but never the Rivermouth.  So I got these mean new fins. I need to file them down so they sit flush in the fin box (as you can see they are raised a bit).

The wave was tough for me to negotiate at first. It's very much like Malibu where it looks like nothing and jacks up on you at the last second. Much different than what I am use to in OOB and Higgins which tend to linger forever. Missed a few at first--getting use to the wave. Then I caught a left, still feeling out the wave. I grab a right where I was so deep in the pocket. I have never been that deep before. I was just cruising and checking out the curl. On the next one (I don't know how to describe it) I got semi-tubed. I  know that's not a term, but that's what I'm calling it. I was deep in the pocket again and the wave was rolling over my head. I scooted down a bit and then the wave crashed/closed hard on me. It was so cool.  After the ride I yelled, "Yeah!!!"

I went back to the surf shop to get advice on how to really get tubed when I'm in that situation.  The guy said, "see it's the fins." I think it was more the wave, but maybe they helped me stay deeper in the wave. Then he told me to scoot down real low and then transfer my weight forward to shoot out. I can't wait to get full on barreled!