Right Frame Of Mind (Doesn't Mean Jack)

Present From Bali. Quiksilver Monkey

Surf was so sweet yesterday--all day long. Unfortunately I missed it 'cause I was in a 5 hour-long booored meeting. I knew there would be remnants today so I got mentally prepared. I watched a lot of tutorials, basically a refresher course. I was all geared up.  Went to Higgins. Conditions were super glassy.  I saw everyone clustered way over to the right so I paddled out there. Next thing I know, I was practically swept to Scarborough Beach and at one point I was dangerously close to some rocks. I think I may have caught my four worst waves ever. On one I hit the drop and, I dunno, forgot to make a bottom turn. I think I figured out that while most people need to be in spot X--Big Wave (so big right now--or at least for the board he's riding) needs to be in spot W. I went for one where I popped up but lost balance. I continued to watch the wave and it just went on forever and ever--I was very upset and bummed. I would say this wave went on for 100 yards or so???

Upon leaving I saw Ivers (my favorite Higgins surfer--I like his style) and he told me it was all gouged up. I'm not exactly sure what that means. Then I stuck around to watch Ivers catch a few waves. Guys started ripping it.  Ironically they were all on longboards. One guy was up trimming the wave. I don't think I've ever seen someone up so high and tight to the wave--he was riding the edge the whole way and this guy was paddling out--kaboom--a nasty collision. It was obviously the paddler's fault. He should have tucked in behind the surfer and eaten some white water. God knows Big Wave has to do this all the time.