It Only Takes One

So we hit the Bunk today. Right out of the gate Glenn gets the stink eye from a wave hog. A bunch of aggressive locals out there. This wave, like Ogunquit, looks small when approaching and grows real quick. Major adjustment for Big Wave on this type of wave. Had a bunch of bad attempts and goofy pops, but then...I was in the right position, angling for take-off. I'm up, have a nice drop, bottom turn--now I'm trimming high on the face, swoop down for another bottom turn and then ride it out. It only takes one to get the juices flowing. It also has been a long time since I've caught a real wave.