Nice Stuff

The waves are still comin' in real sweet. I went out for 45 min tonight and caught a few nice ones. I'm just too exhausted right now. I'm pretty sure I told you guys how much I missed my board, right? Okay, I thought so.

A few omissions from the Surfari

• The water at Hatteras was 70 degrees. Back home I'm in my winter suit.

• Malibu and Topanga have the nastiest kelp. It reminded me of the "Little Shop of Horrors". At times my legs and leash were so tangled in the mess, I would paddle for a wave and I couldn't move.

• I saw dolphins every day at every spot in California.
  

• At Uppers, I was sitting on my board. A duck surfaces right next to me, looks over, quacks at me then disappears.

• I'm at Surfers' Point and I hear this "rat tat tat" behind me. I scares the living daylights out of me. It's a duck taking flight.
  

• You know you're a redneck if you stop in Coinjock, NC.

• Can't talk on the cell phone, but I see a woman driving with a cigarette in one hand, a coffee in the other, applying lipstick in the rear-view mirror all while looking over her shoulder and yelling at the children in the back seat. C'mon, Mr. Popo.

Alright....Boom Biddy Bye Bye

My Board

I did better today than all of my surfari days combined. I attribute this to many things. Obviously my board (never leave home without it), but also...

I surfed many point breaks in California which have a specific take off spot. If there are a lot of homies out (which there will be)--good luck. I learned a lot by watching those guys. They were all incredible surfers. There are different pop-up techniques for different types of waves. Positioning is everything. I also probably have more confidence at my home break.

I just wish my dad would have seen me this morning. He's never seen me catch a wave, but he's crashing hard at my place. We've been up for over 24 hours. I think it's lights out for me as well.

OBX

While heading out to surf I heard this man say, "now don't be intimidated, go pick your spot and just do your thing." I asked him if he was giving me a pep talk. Actually he was talking to his 16 year old son. They were from New Jersey.

The guy who I rented a board from was trying to give me a short board because of the conditions. I went with the longboard because there is no way I can ride a short board yet. My dad must be disappointed in me and be wondering what the hell I have been doing for the past year. I got tossed several times and only caught some whitewater. I should have caught at least three, but hey. He can't be any more disappointed in my surfing than I am in his picture taking ability. I'm surprised he even got this much of me in the pic.

Alright so here's my analogy. Let's say Serena Williams is in the finals of Wimbledon and I give her my racket to use in the finals. I guarantee you that she will lose. You want more, I've got 'em.

We just rolled in about a half hour ago. I drove 1041 miles yesterday.

Looks like I've wasted the last 11 days because the waves are rocking in OOB. I'm spent, but I think I'm gonna go catch some waves.

Tomahawk Chop

Got a late start this morning (yesterday). The airline lost my bags. I think the TSA may still be messing with me. Went to the Men's Room. I gave them creative license. They scalped me. They sold me on the style as being short enough to show that I can afford a haircut but long enough to say I don't give a ....

Gonna hit Hatteras in the morning. All reports looking good. Should be chest high!!!

America's Most Wanted

It was blown out everywhere today. Went to El Porto and Manhattan Beach, but it wasn't working. I see this guy at Manhattan Beach and he tells me to check out Topanga. Now here's the real kicker. It's the same guy who told me to go to San Onofre last year. For real.

Driving to Topanga I get harassed by the popo. Go figure, I was talking to "snake" on the phone. He's nothing but trouble. I think the cop let me go 'cause he realized he didn't have any backup. Surfing Topanga this guy tells me, "this spot is for locals". I said, "I know, I wonder where these kooks are comin from."

Off to hit a yoga class with Shiva Rea (google her, she's way legit).

Next stop--the Men's Room Sarasota.

Wait til they see my rental car (lousy surfmobile). Roof covered with wax, sand all over the back seat and an additional 1,200 miles. Teach them to pull the ole switcharoo.

Can't wait to ride my board again. My rental sucked.

iFLY

Since I never made it skydiving last summer, I went to iFLY indoor skydiving. I was awful. I'm not sure if I am worse at skydiving or surfing. I was all over the place. Good thing I didn't go skydiving 'cause I woulda been all tangled in the parachute.

Check out the hair through the helmet though--stylin.

adVentura

Surfed Ventura today. What a great vibe. People were actually talking in the water (very unusual). A nice wave was coming and I looked at this kid. He had priority on the wave. He gave me the thumbs up and pointed at me. Basically saying it's your wave. Way Cool.

After Surfers' Point, I headed up to Rincon. Similar to Surfriders, Rincon has a very defined take-off zone. There were only 8 of us out there. I had to show a lot of respect 'cause they were all locals. They were real nice. After they caught about 10 waves apiece, they would let one slide my way. You do the math. Every 71st wave I was granted an opportunity.