My Board

I did better today than all of my surfari days combined. I attribute this to many things. Obviously my board (never leave home without it), but also...

I surfed many point breaks in California which have a specific take off spot. If there are a lot of homies out (which there will be)--good luck. I learned a lot by watching those guys. They were all incredible surfers. There are different pop-up techniques for different types of waves. Positioning is everything. I also probably have more confidence at my home break.

I just wish my dad would have seen me this morning. He's never seen me catch a wave, but he's crashing hard at my place. We've been up for over 24 hours. I think it's lights out for me as well.