Surfed Ventura today. What a great vibe. People were actually talking in the water (very unusual). A nice wave was coming and I looked at this kid. He had priority on the wave. He gave me the thumbs up and pointed at me. Basically saying it's your wave. Way Cool.
After Surfers' Point, I headed up to Rincon. Similar to Surfriders, Rincon has a very defined take-off zone. There were only 8 of us out there. I had to show a lot of respect 'cause they were all locals. They were real nice. After they caught about 10 waves apiece, they would let one slide my way. You do the math. Every 71st wave I was granted an opportunity.
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