OBX

While heading out to surf I heard this man say, "now don't be intimidated, go pick your spot and just do your thing." I asked him if he was giving me a pep talk. Actually he was talking to his 16 year old son. They were from New Jersey.

The guy who I rented a board from was trying to give me a short board because of the conditions. I went with the longboard because there is no way I can ride a short board yet. My dad must be disappointed in me and be wondering what the hell I have been doing for the past year. I got tossed several times and only caught some whitewater. I should have caught at least three, but hey. He can't be any more disappointed in my surfing than I am in his picture taking ability. I'm surprised he even got this much of me in the pic.

Alright so here's my analogy. Let's say Serena Williams is in the finals of Wimbledon and I give her my racket to use in the finals. I guarantee you that she will lose. You want more, I've got 'em.

We just rolled in about a half hour ago. I drove 1041 miles yesterday.

Looks like I've wasted the last 11 days because the waves are rocking in OOB. I'm spent, but I think I'm gonna go catch some waves.