Middles

Actually there are two more breaks at Trestles--Middles and Church (I knew that too). So check this out...I pull in the parking lot and I see the same girl, Janice Hill, as yesterday. I mean seriously. She was a California champ in 1979. She tells me to check out Middles. I hit a head-high drop. That was a real wave!!! I then boogied back to Barb Wire 'cause I had so much success there yesterday. Trestles was crowded yesterday...Today was out of control. Hundreds of surfers in the water and a hundreds more on the beach. These shortboarders swarm and are extremely aggressive. I caught a few at Barbs and had to roll. I'm the only longboarder out there and believe me when I tell you--you are in the way with a longboard.

Now that's a Surfmobile!