Today was awesome. No hoody and back to gloves. I'm actually getting better at this gig. It's nice when you make progress (in anything). "Bass, how low can you go?" That's what I figured out today. Stay low. You have so much more control, maneuverability and speed. I know it probably seems obvious...I mean in any sport, right? Low athletic stance. But it takes a while to figure out and being comfortable on a wave.
So I'm out there (I think I'm out of the way--I really am), then this guy gets up and carves hard my way and has to bail on his ride. He's swearing up a storm. I apologize. When I look over to apologize again, I notice he's on a canary yellow board. It's the snake. Remember him? Ah, Sweet Justice!!!
Happy Halloween
12 years ago
The vigilante strikes back!
ReplyDeleteThought of you tonight as Jackie and I sat and saw the movie "Soul Surfer" ... a true story about surfer Bethany Hamilton who lost her arm surfing having been bitten by a Shark while surfing.
ReplyDeleteKen