Trying To Avoid The DL

There were some nice waves last night and this morning. Unfortunately, I messed up my back pretty good. Was bedridden all day yesterday and am on a healthy dose of ibuprofen, ben gay, and a mix of heat and ice. Next on the list--acupuncture or Reiki.

Feeling much better today. Well I'm moving around anyway. Hopefully I'll be back in action tomorrow. Like I said...anything to avoid being placed on the DL.

Woody Skimboard

My Victoria "Woody" came UPS today. Out of the box and time for a test ride. It was high tide, not ideal conditions. What a difference having the proper equipment makes. So I was cruising down the bank and into the waves. Even doing 180's--not by choice. Got rocked a few times--more than a few. I think I'll do alright at low tide--provided of course there are no waves. Tweaked my back real good on one spill!

Clustered & Flustered

The paddle out was brutal. At one point my leash was so entwined with seaweed that I wasn't even moving. I was about to give up and call it a day, but forged ahead. Finally, I got out to the lineup. The whole Higgins gang was talking about where they surfed yesterday at the Ube (OOB)--Union, 5th, 11th...

It was so crowded with boogie boarders, stand up paddlers, etc there was hardly room to breath. One SUP guy was right next to me and starts to paddle right for my board then rolls his eyes as he misses the wave 'cause I'm in the way. Come on! I had enough. Caught one wave in and called it quits. Just way too congested.

It's good though. You need a session like that to cut you down in size.

Surfers Delight

There have been surfers in the water since 6:30 this morning and there is still one guy out there. Nice off-shore winds all day long. Tonight's session was fun. A lot of slow peelers!

I am exhausted. Big Wave is gonna sleep like a baby tonight. Looks like tomorrow is gonna be good too. Over and out!

Freakin'

Just caught my four sickest, fastest, longest waves. Caught one sweet left where the wave was just holding up. I was so high on the face and it went on and on. On another, I was going right, did a mean bottom turn, started climbing the face (a guy paddling out was hootin'--as you know, always cool) and then trimmed the s**t out of the wave.

There was one girl in the line-up who recognized me from my Christmas Day session. Back then she was giving me tips on turning. Anyway she said I've come a long way in a short time. That's encouraging!

Then a man in a gray suit breached about 10 feet in front of us. I was freakin'. Put my arms on my board and my feet in the air. Caught the next train outta town.

Goin' back out in a little bit. Hurricane Season Rocks!!! When's the next one scheduled?

Somethin' Is A Brewin'

I'm on my biggest, baddest, meanest wave ever (overhead). It's lining up perfectly. I'm riding high on the face, in the curl getting ready to make my drop...What!!! There's a guy paddling out in the trough. Pfff, I pull out the backside--don't even know how I did this. He apologized and said that was the best wave of the day.... I was a bit gun shy after that 'cause I can't really take off and then slice through surfers in surf that size. Anyway, I caught a few, but nothing like the one that got away.

Action should be good around 5:30...I think somethin' is a brewin'!

Downgraded

Irene has been downgraded to a Tropical Storm for Maine. There will be no surf today, but there should be some really good action Monday & Tuesday (there always is after a storm). Don't tell that to these 3 cats though. They can't even walk with their boards let alone get into the surf. The girl with the green board is the one who did the switch stance at Higgins last week.

Drove by Camp Ellis this morning. They are gonna get whacked--they always do. An incoming wave crashed on the rocks and hit my car. It's not even big out there yet and they are getting that.

They radio broadcast said stay away from the ocean at all costs. Um, slight problem...I live at the ocean. Last night with the weather as calm as could be hundreds of seagulls took flight seeking refuge. Funny how animals know these things. They must have heard the same radio broadcast I heard.