I'm on my biggest, baddest, meanest wave ever (overhead). It's lining up perfectly. I'm riding high on the face, in the curl getting ready to make my drop...What!!! There's a guy paddling out in the trough. Pfff, I pull out the backside--don't even know how I did this. He apologized and said that was the best wave of the day.... I was a bit gun shy after that 'cause I can't really take off and then slice through surfers in surf that size. Anyway, I caught a few, but nothing like the one that got away.
Action should be good around 5:30...I think somethin' is a brewin'!
Happy Halloween
12 years ago
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