Freakin'

Just caught my four sickest, fastest, longest waves. Caught one sweet left where the wave was just holding up. I was so high on the face and it went on and on. On another, I was going right, did a mean bottom turn, started climbing the face (a guy paddling out was hootin'--as you know, always cool) and then trimmed the s**t out of the wave.

There was one girl in the line-up who recognized me from my Christmas Day session. Back then she was giving me tips on turning. Anyway she said I've come a long way in a short time. That's encouraging!

Then a man in a gray suit breached about 10 feet in front of us. I was freakin'. Put my arms on my board and my feet in the air. Caught the next train outta town.

Goin' back out in a little bit. Hurricane Season Rocks!!! When's the next one scheduled?