Floaties

I'm not exactly sure what red tide is, but for the past two days I have been surrounded by red moss-like floaties in the water. I'm calling it red tide. Walking back in I see a clam shell in the water and I pick it up. It is a big live surf clam. His foot (or neck) was out and he immediately pulled it back in. I don't remember the walk home ever being so steep.

Top Turn

Played the loop de loop game yesterday. I'm starting to find out that whenever I have to go to that many spots, there's probably no surf, but I play nonetheless. Look at Higgins with their sign. That only prompts me to park on the street.

Caught some surf at home today. Small but good. I was riding the shoulder and did a top turn. I also had one where I was teeter-tottering on top of the wave and moved forward down the drop. All-in-all a good day.

At It Again

We all got a good laugh in the water tonight. Magic Seaweed is calling for double overhead on Friday. As if, their report is always calling for much bigger than it ever is. Had some good runs tonight. Was actually pumping the wave on one.

I got a repair kit to fix my bootie. After the repair, the boil doubled in size. Also the super glue let go on my slippah.

"The inner self is a great place. It's closer than most people think and it is nearly perfect. When a person can find a way to access this wonderful state at will, there is no worry about being caught inside again. Surfing has an endless supply of lessons to teach us."-Gerry Lopez

Obvious

I went to the bookstore and asked an employee, "where's the sports section?" She said, "that depends the sports have been broken up into two sections. For instance, the surfing books are over there." For real, that's what she said. The woman at the register asked me if I was a surfer.

No waves today so I'm chillin out reading "Surf Is Where You Find It" by Gerry Lopez.

"When you stare into the abyss the abyss stares back at you"- Friedrich Nietzsche

Little Duck

For the first hour it was me and a little duck out there. The duck does a beautiful duck dive (paddling out technique for shortboards--instead of a turtle roll). I was able to work on my frontside turn. I'm actually better on the backside turn. Like everything else in my life, this is totally backwards. I was up and riding twice when I had to turn to avoid an oncoming surfer paddling out. This was cool. Normally, I would just bail, but today I actually stayed on my board, turned around the guy and continued my ride.

Boink

Everything is falling apart. My bootie is letting water in. Look at that boil. My slippah broke. I was able to fix that with a little super glue. And I have been real lazy changing lately...dropping my boardshorts before I have my towel on.

Missed more waves than I caught today. Peru would have said the Ocean was confused. The waves were good height, but coming in real choppy and all crazy. The only time I don't protect my head when wiping out...I surface and here comes my board falling from above...boink, right on my head. No blood, keep surfing.

Last Waves of Summer

Caught a few good ones early on. It was a workout getting out there. Even though I was tired, I kept turtling. After all they're the last waves of Summer. By the end, I was chasing. I think I gave some advice to some young chaps about chasing in the second blog entry.

Looking forward to Fall surfing!!!

Gotta Earn The Next Ride

I must have turteled 10 times to get beyond the break (way too much work). The sets just kept coming. I rocked three waves and got rocked on a few others.

I started to hit one overhead drop and went flying. I was up on my board and going straignt down the face. If only I coulda turned. I was a little scared too.

Hopefully, I will get the hang of this before the end of summer.

Morning Quickie

The sun was barely over the horizon, shining in my eyes. While paddling for the wave it became pitch black. The height of the wave would block out the sun.

I caught one chest high and worked the face. Then I rolled.

Double Header

Had a much better evening session! I'm sure the afternoon nap helped. I rocked my last wave. The waves have been non-stop in Old Orchard today--unusual.

We have demanding jobs. Pat has been working all day. My situation isn't much better. I mean I get called in at 5:00pm on a Sunday.

Late Night, Early Waves

Pat's in town...we celebrate Labor Day on our own schedule. Got home late last night and was out in the water with not much sleep. Balance was shaky this morning as you can see from this video. Gotta love the goofy style though. Caught a couple good waves.

Try To Take Me For A Ride

Seems like everyone is tryin to bamboozle me.

Eugene told me I would have my board by Friday. I left him a message this morning and stopped by at noon. He told me maybe tomorrow.

I had condo meetings during low tide yesterday and today. When others have to work or travel, special arrangements are made. My work hours are low tide.

Eugene calls around five o'clock and tells me my board is ready. I zoomed over and hit some waves at Higgins. They were about head high. I got barrelled when I would turtle. The waves were good. I caught a few nice rides. Pumped I got my board back.

"Try to take me for a ride, I'm not a bad guy, but I'm the funky feel one."

Boardshorts Not Allowed

I went to Higgins, Old Orchard, Camp Ellis, Fortunes Rock, Gooch's, Wells and Ogunquit. Where did I surf--nowhere. I couldn't justify renting a board for the waves or lack thereof.

Beach Croquet at Higgins. The required attire is white. They told me it doesn't matter that it's after Labor Day. Boardshorts are definitely not allowed.

Another Day

Started the day off trapped in the elevator with my board. Once that got straightened out, I headed to Higgins where the waves were paltry. I was in the water with two guidos. I think they may have appeared on the "Jersey Shore".

Shot home and the waves were waist high. Sa--weet!!! Caught some good rides today where just my fin was in the water. I noticed I have a ding in the tail of my board so I've gotta get that fixed. Big Waves coming on Friday.

Tough Crowd

My neighbor/videographer, Ken, told me I only had a few good ones today. That's alright, because I caught one really good ride where I was trimming the wave. I'm not sure how this happens, it just does--and it's awesome.

There have been no waves since Earl. Hurry up Igor, where are you? Magic Seaweed is calling for overhead conditions on Friday. You know what that means...probably waist high. I'll take it.

I've been traveling to different breaks over the past few days hoping for waves with no luck. "Running to something in stages, set me free."

Pathetic Junkie

Pathetic--that's how I'd rate my session tonight. I was awful. I also think I've become a surf junkie. Again there were no waves, but still I find myself looking for a fix.

The only good thing was the crescent moon (blow up the pic and you can see her).

Numb

Ah, that's what I like to see. Things are back to normal. No parking til October 1st. Surfers push the envelope. There was a slew of cars parked on the road. Changing in the street, right beside the beach--the way it should be. I bet you the sign, "No shirt, no shoes, no service" is a result of surfers. Who else doesn't wear shirts and shoes? Maybe bums, but we're one in the same.

Surfers are also foolish. I must have waited at least an hour to come in (I was not gonna paddle). I was praying for a wave. I mean what were we even doing out there. There were absolutely no waves. Toe ticklers at best (made up name)--smaller than small. Yet, I kept going back out.

I had trouble tying down my board and changing was tough. My fingers were numb. Nighttime surfing is getting chilly. I cranked the heat the whole ride home.


Yesterday, the guy at the surf shop asked where I'm surfing next. Every time I go to this shop, Liquid Dreams in Ogunquit, the guy is stoked about my surfing travels and he tells the customers about my Hawaii/California trip. He was real helpful before I went out. Anyway...I told him the Riviera of the East, Long Beach, NY.

Big Night

I had a big night planned. Today is my 6 month anniversary with my baby...I celebrated the only way I knew how. Ride some of her waves. She made me work for each and every one. Playing hard to get. That's alright, I enjoy the chase. At the end, I was surfing in total darkness with about 20 other fools. The things you do for love.

Walking back on the beach, I was throwing shakas and praising the Lord above.

Summer's gone, but surfing's not. Look, no Svetlana. Parking is free again!!! In the second pic you can see the need for the ball-z bag.

Eleventh Street

The waves were head high in Old Orchard but closing out. I watched a bunch of surfers get rocked. I ended up at Eleventh Street--Pine Point. There was a massive cross wind. I caught a few good rides and called it quits. I was spent. Then I ran into Deena on the beach. So I went back out. I was so weary, I didn't catch anything. I couldn't even pop-up my arms were wet noodles. The one time I did get up, my legs gave out. This cat will sleep well tonight.

Waiting On A Friend

"Those who don't believe me, find your souls and set them free,
Those who do, believe and know that time will be your key,
Time and time again I've thanked them for a peace of mind,
That helped me find myself amongst the music and the rhyme"

What can I say...Old Orchard has been sweet to me this week!!! I was in the water today with a guy who talked more than me. I know--hard to believe.

"I'm not waiting on a lady." Danielle already blew me off. "I'm just waiting on a friend." I've invited Earl over for the weekend!

Home Sweet Home

I had a kayak trip planned with Fred today. Looking out my window, I couldn't let the waves pass me by. Old Orchard is great. For the last three days, I have been the only one out there...parking is free and when I catch a ride, the Canadians hoot and holler!

After the surf, we went kayaking. We launched at Marblehead and were gonna paddle to Camp Ellis and return to Marblehead. I was tired. I told Fred, I didn't wanna go back up river. So we took the much longer route. We rode the Saco River to the Atlantic. Fred decided to move up front and put me at the helm. Big Mistake...we just went in circles. Once hitting the Atlantic, we went around the jetty and kayaked into Old Orchard. We passed two seals along the way (real close to our kayak). Not cool. Do you know whose favorite meal is the seal?


Approaching Old Orchard, Fred was debating what side of which set of rocks to come in on (the left or right). I told him we were gonna thread the needle and come in between both sets of rocks. We nailed the entry. Now that's a helmsman!!!

Ice Ice Baby

Iced up my thigh all night long--couldn't miss the morning session you know. Caught a lot of waves today, but did nothing special. Until...My last ride. It was nice. I was working the wave. When I pulled up on shore a grandmother, mother, and three little girls were clapping and said, "that was beautiful!"