Numb

Ah, that's what I like to see. Things are back to normal. No parking til October 1st. Surfers push the envelope. There was a slew of cars parked on the road. Changing in the street, right beside the beach--the way it should be. I bet you the sign, "No shirt, no shoes, no service" is a result of surfers. Who else doesn't wear shirts and shoes? Maybe bums, but we're one in the same.

Surfers are also foolish. I must have waited at least an hour to come in (I was not gonna paddle). I was praying for a wave. I mean what were we even doing out there. There were absolutely no waves. Toe ticklers at best (made up name)--smaller than small. Yet, I kept going back out.

I had trouble tying down my board and changing was tough. My fingers were numb. Nighttime surfing is getting chilly. I cranked the heat the whole ride home.


Yesterday, the guy at the surf shop asked where I'm surfing next. Every time I go to this shop, Liquid Dreams in Ogunquit, the guy is stoked about my surfing travels and he tells the customers about my Hawaii/California trip. He was real helpful before I went out. Anyway...I told him the Riviera of the East, Long Beach, NY.