Sunday, November 7, 2010

A Dollar Late And A Day Short

First off--reverting back to Standard Time is not cool for surfing!!! Yesterday afternoon, Ken came out with me to get some video. Unfortunately, nothing made it past the cutting room floor. I had one sweet wipeout while trying to catch a good-sized wave but we didn't get it on film.

Today, I was going after a wave with four other people. Usually I would yield to better surfers--also the wave belongs to whoever catches it deepest (or closest to the peak). I was the only one who caught the wave.

Andrew in Hawaii told me "the water gonna be cold brahda." The water is not bad with the wetsuit, but it sure is cold getting out with a lot of heavy, chilling breathing.

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