Wants & Needs

I want to surf and I need to surf. While picking up my morning Monster, a weathered old man said to me, "Surf's Up." Granted, I'm still sporting the boardshorts and checkerboard Vans.

Oh no, here we go again. I started out slow mostly avoiding those who were catching waves. Then things started to take shape (caught about a dozen rides today). After a long lull, three of us went after and caught the same "party wave". We all did the bottom turn at the same time--it was pretty cool. It reminded me of party waves at the 'bu.

I hit two waves where I dropped down and did a sweeping bottom turn to climb back up the face and then pulled a top turn.

Oh yeah, I know how I caught the waves yesterday. It's my new mantra. "Don't Fear the Wave--Catch the Wave".