Making Progress

I caught one wave today. On another try, I was up on a steep wave and both me and my board torpedoed straight down into the water.

While sitting on my board beyond the break, I was watching the waves (from behind). As soon as they started to break, a rainbow would appear.

I don't know what's up. I've been fearful of the oncoming waves. I've even tried some Ujjayi breathing with no luck. I'm calling it bad karma.