Nearly Shutout

My bed is setup right at the window so when I wake up the first thing I see is the waves. And believe me, my eyes were wide open when I woke up this morning. The waves were and are still off the hook.

I was missing everything (maybe a little scared). This would be the third day in a row without catching a wave and then the next thing I know...I'm riding backside high on the face of a mean wave. I was hummin' down the line.

From an article in last Sunday's newspaper,"And I learned that life can begin at 40. All you have to do is go surfing."

Juiced for an afternoon session!