Art

Today was more suited for "old trusty" which now finds itself hanging on the wall. I need to get a double-decker strap so I can bring both boards with me. Right now I like playing with my new toy. Everyone seems to be asking me what type of board it is, so I think I'm gonna get some neon paint and write, "It's a POP-OUT" on both sides.

Hit my first drop with the new board and out ran a couple of sections. One ride was kinda neat. The wave had already crashed. I was in white water so I just rode it in on my belly. Then I could see the wave was gonna reform so I started to paddle, popped up and rode the wave. Also did my first turtle with the new board. Coincidentally, I did turtle (Kurmsana) for the first time at yoga yesterday. Neither one was very graceful.

Met an older gentleman, Steve, out in the line-up. He had snow-white hair and stache. He was rockin' the waves. I hope to be as good as him some day and definitely keepin' the stoke alive at that age. It was inspirational!!!

Mis-Fortunes

Went to Fortunes Rock. Boy is that far. I mean it's right over there, but as they like to say in Maine, "You can't get there from here."

So I was scoping out the waves--nothing special. Then I see a girl go out surfing in a bikini. Well, I mean I was there anyway so...

Every time I would pop-up the wave would close out. That was my day. A bunch of Mis-Fortunes.

Ramblings...

There is a huge anti-Pop-Out movement within the surf community. It's all over the web. You can find few counter arguments, although with much digging you can find some info.

I was restless, upset, and had trouble sleeping after finding out I had purchased a pop-out.

Well I can see both sides of the situation, especially those wanting to keep shapers in business and stay true to the art.

I must say...living in Maine, I know of no shapers. So I go to my local surf shop and talk to the guy and get info to see what he has to fit my needs. He puts me into a pop-out. Now, that's more profit in his pocket. This has to be somewhat good as it is keeping my local surf shop around. I would really be up a creek with no surf shops in the area.

Now I know a custom board is gonna be the bomb. I would say that is the case with any craft. But off-the-shelf items have their place too. Whether it be: guitars, baseball bats, gloves, golf clubs, running shoes, etc. I would say off-the-shelf or pop-outs are perfect for the beginner to intermediate. I'm not gonna get a custom Les Paul, although I would love to have one. By the same token, Eric Clapton is not gonna play a $200.00 Fender Squier Strat--while he might have in his youth (if such a thing existed). My point here is that as you progress in anything you will invest in the better stuff when the time is appropriate and your skill warrants it. Top level/advanced people in any field have custom stuff. Don't worry the shaper isn't going anywhere soon.

Believe me, Usain "Lightning" Bolt doesn't get his shoes off-the-rack. Do you think Tiger Woods gets his clubs off-the-shelf? I'm sure he did at one point.

I was just informed by my neighbor who owns a Steinway Grand Piano that she did not learn to play on a Steinway.

Test Drive

Took my new stick out for a spin. Waves were ankle to knee high mush. Caught at least two-dozen rides. Had one really cool left and one nice right. Didn't outrun any sections, but I think I'm gonna have fun on this board--thus the name, funboard.

While changing, wetsuit around my ankles...a little girl stops right out front of me and won't continue on her way. What's one to do? Well I continued changing. I'm very adept at this procedure.

One more coming about pop outs...

Quiver...

...or at least the start of one. I decided that the waves yesterday were not above my skill level. I had the wrong board for the conditions. So, I went to Cinnamon Rainbows to pick up a used board, but I fell for the old up-sell and went new. It's a popout (not very keen of the idea) which is taboo in the surf industry, but hey...money is money.

New board means a new look for Big Wave. I got an 8'0 funboard with a thruster setup. Phil, shop owner, wants to get me into a 6'10 next year. We'll see. My old board is a 9'4 so this will be a big transition for me. Board looks and feels tiny. Smallest I've ever ridden is a 9'0. Should be able to ride in more conditions though. Phil told me I'm gonna have to paddle harder and drop a little later. The later part I can handle.

As my golden locks were falling to the ground, I almost held off and told her to stop while we were at the little dutch boy look. After the haircut, the stylist told me --she liked the way my hair was before saying, "it was cool having an I don't care attitude." Once again, a victim of the up-sell.

Sad State of Affairs

Didn't catch one wave in the afternoon session. When I came to shore there were 42 seagulls sitting and mocking me.

Afterward, I was talking to Ivars on the beach. He is a really good surfer. He asked how long I've been surfing and then told me I'm doing really well. I didn't catch a wave. He must be talking about other times he's seen me surf.

The waves were definitely above my ability level today. That's alright. I did some research on how to tackle these steep waves. I'm ready for the next go around.

Sweet Maria

I was chasing bombs. Caught one really sick ride and that was about it. Did a couple of rail grabs to go left, but basically I got bombed.

I did a turtle and the wave jacked me and my board right out of the water. Trying to hit a drop, I smacked my board hard and got held under. Got tossed over the falls on another. At one point I was gonna leave 'cause my calf was crampin' hard. Only later did I realize that I wasn't cramping up--the wave was was ripping my board so hard that it was the tension from the leash causing the pain.

I was glad to see that Higgins' top dog did no better out there. It was just rough n' tumble!

How sexy is that pic? Rise & shine.

Woody

THE ULTIMATE SURFMOBILE!!!

Paradise

I needed to get away from all of the stress, so I went camping. I was visited by a couple of bears and a cougar. Good thing I left my provisions outside of the tent. Later in the night, I was playing guitar with a guy on the beach.

The camp ground I went to was awesome. I was the only one on the seven-mile stretch. In the middle of the night it felt and sounded like the waves were washing all around me. Sweet Relaxation. Finished the trip off with a little morning yoga.

Smokin' Hot

Day 3
Yeah, the weather, the girls and the surf. The announcer commented that the waves looked like the North Shore. They were comin' in real sweet. This is Kelly Slater hitting the barrel in his semi-final heat.

Later in the heat, he got a perfect 10. I don't know what you call this move, but he boosted, did a 360 in the air, landed back on the wave and rode it in, and made a claim. If you don't land the move and continue to ride, it doesn't count. Did I tell you these guys are SICK!!!

Owen Wright, winner of the biggest purse in surf history.

http://quiksilverpro.com/blog,143,contest.en.htm

Next stop on the tour, Trestles. Big Wave has surfed two of the pro venues.

(I would blow up all pics from the past 3 days to get a feel)

Definitely gonna have to get a job real soon after this trip.

Aerial Display

Day 2
Ah...The Katia swell was building. The weather was off the hook and the crowd was massive. Sunny day means plenty of bikinis on the beach. The girls in New York leave nothing to the imagination and believe me...I have a vivid imagination.

Joel Parkinson caught the first tube of the competition. This is him coming out. Blow up the pic. After that the waves were pumping for an air show and these guys did not disappoint. The announcer said, "It's not like you can go practice this. You need the right conditions to perform air." These guys are unbelievably amazing!!! (Tough to catch a picture in the air with my rinky-dink cam).
http://quiksilverpro.com/blog,141,contest.en.html

Hit the Open again. Saw Roger Federer against Jo-Wilfried Tsonga. John McEnroe once said, "the difference between #1 in the world and #10 is how they play the big points." That was certainly the case in this match. I mean they all hit the ball like machines.

Gonna have a good video clip, but I'm not gonna get it until either Wednesday or Thursday of next week--stay tuned!

Quiksilver Pro New York

Day 1
Went to the Quiksilver Pro at Long Beach. This is the first pro surf event on the East Coast in over twenty years. It was a nasty day, weather wise, but things cleared up by the time I got there and I saw some good action. This is Big Wave with Jeremy Flores.

http://quiksilverpro.com/blog,138,contest.en.html

Hit the US Open at night. Saw Serena Williams warm up and then play was suspended due to weather. The whole day was a wash at the Open. I've been to Wimbledon, The French Open, and The US Open and have yet to see a match.

Funny thing is...when I told people that I was going to the Quicksilver Pro, (having no idea) they asked me...Oh are you entering? I wouldn't even qualify for the Old Orchard Beach Open. How come no one asks me if I'm entering the US Open? I'm a much better tennis player than surfer.

A Few More From The Island

Homer D in the House!!! It was a beautiful day. Tough to beat--a party boat and a little Reggae on the side. On the way home we had an encounter with the popo. I believe it was a case of racial profiling. Come on, we get pulled over in the open water. Actually there was a rowdy boat who caused some problems and buzzed us. My skipper said to the popo, "he was a weirude man." The cop was really cool. After we left, I asked Ali what is a weirude (some boat terminology or something). He told me, "no the guy was way rude." That's was good enough for the cops. Hey it's Reggae Sunday--what do you expect...even the cops are chillin'

One Love

Rockin' at Peaks on Ali's boat, "Wee Bee Stylin'." As always, good times at Peaks. How long til Memorial Day?

"One Love, One Heart
Let's get together and feel all right"

Not A Good Go

Of course not, Ken's in town. So you know what that means... I won't catch anything. Actually had one decent ride, but that's about it.

Then he asks me when I'm going to Florida--insinuating that it's time for a haircut.

"Word To Ya Mutha".

Did a rehab this morning. Cleared for action. I didn't know I had a scheduled start. Let me tell you one thing. If your gonna surf in the morning...you can't stay out to 2:00 the night before.
Word To Your Mother.