I was chasing bombs. Caught one really sick ride and that was about it. Did a couple of rail grabs to go left, but basically I got bombed.
I did a turtle and the wave jacked me and my board right out of the water. Trying to hit a drop, I smacked my board hard and got held under. Got tossed over the falls on another. At one point I was gonna leave 'cause my calf was crampin' hard. Only later did I realize that I wasn't cramping up--the wave was was ripping my board so hard that it was the tension from the leash causing the pain.
I was glad to see that Higgins' top dog did no better out there. It was just rough n' tumble!
How sexy is that pic? Rise & shine.
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