Phew

Big Wave's Rental

Phew for you that I didn't put my camera on the rented board. I was/am so bad....The waves were small and lousy but still. Others were working the waves. Then I had a breakthrough. I saw Ivers. He doesn't paddle, he pops up slow motion and yet he is always in control and he is one of my favorite Higgins' surfers. So I think it clicked....Slow it Down.