It's Always Good...

When you can go out, paddle a board, and grab a few waves.  I was real aggressive going for a wave every couple of minutes, but would overcut (over turn) everything--trying to turn way too hard and burying my rail. All good though.


 I really enjoyed the second ride here--although nothing special... Someone else had priority--it was their wave. If you notice I look to my right (your left) while paddling. I go to my knees because I am going to pull out of the wave (off the back), I see him fall and I continue to grab the wave

Fish Pops

Good practice popping up on the fish because there wasn't much of a wave face today...mostly crumbling white-water. Then I get popped. Don't worry fans...I saw it coming. A big oil tanker (sup) came flying at me.

Yeah Boy!!!

Hog or Fish--The Great Debate

Hey, Yo Big Wave clean your lens once in a while. Check That!
The hog or the fish that is the question. I don't know which board to use.  They are rated for similar conditions, but do different things. I just wanna make the right choice. I went with the Hog today 'cause it was so windy.

Too Bad you can't see 'cause these are some really nice rides. Bummer.

Gotta Work

Gotta work for the waves on the fish. Phew. May just take the hog out tomorrow. First wave, I hunted down Go Pro Glenn (ironic) and almost cleaned him out. Later on, he almost cleaned me out as I was in his way three times. So after about an hour out there I  started thinking before each wave--3 L's.  Look ahead (when paddling) where you wanna go, Stay Low (once you're up), and Stay Loose so you can turn. I have a tendency of being all rigid once up and locking in on the wave. That's why we skateboard...to stay loose.

Tales From The Fish

To my non-surfing friends...I missed the first one due to fear. I popped up too soon and the wave passed me by. I was afraid to paddle into/down the wave.  On the others you can see I was SHAKY. I have a lot less board, but from those shaky rides I realized it's all the same. So next time I go fishing, hopefully, I will have no fear.

On the last wave, after the super-shaky pop up,  I was gonna make a bottom turn but could see the wave was gonna pound me onshore so I jumped through the wave. That's also how I break all my boards--on a shore break.

Downhill

Video Is Spastic and All Over The Place, But I Had A Lot I Wanted You To See


Today's session went downhill quick. Started out fine and then....So I read reviews of the Moby Fish on line and it says 2-8 feet and great for small, soft surf. It's a catch 22 because I want to ride the fish but I know I can get up on the hog. After today I'm taking the fish out on small junk.

Short Mushy Rides

You know it's cold when you are changing and you want to get in the water to warm up--brrr. I gave you an intro so you can see Higgins Beach. Rides were short and turning over quick but as always...a good time. I may start bringing the fish out 'cause I think the hog might have too much rocker and be better suited for steeper waves. I don't know. Over thinking as always.

When leaving, there was an older, grey-haired gentleman changing next to me. He was a construction worker which I thought was cool Go Blow Up Your Stereotypes! Everyone Surfs!

Ube-age

The Ube was rocking n rolling today. The moon was to the east and the sun to the west. I was out for two and a half hours. Yahoo for daylight savings or regular light or whatever it is. You know I'm a big fan of Spring Forward.  Was out til 6:30  I was out so long that the battery died on the camera. My last ride was the best too (it was the best in my video era), but I don't have it captured. Of course. Sure you did Big Wave. I did and Glenn will attest to this in the comment section. I did a few loop de loops. It was fun today.

Home Court Advantage

The reports called for nothing so of course no one was surfing. I could see it was a little more than nothing so I went out for a practice session. That's what they call home court advantage.  Hey the water hog is listed as:
"Ideal Wave Size Ankle-high to Head and a half"--so I put it to the test. I had fun but I should have really been able to easily glide into these waves and trim down-the line (terminology defined below).
)

TRIM	The skill of keeping a surfboard at the correct angle to the face to gain maximum speed.

DOWN THE LINE

When riding a wave along the length ahead of the breaking part of a wave.

Bumbling/Fumbling

The waves were bumbling and fumbling, Big Wave was bumbling and fumbling, the video is bumbling and fumbling and the geese were flying out of formation (for real).

Up and Down

That's what I did today...pop up and fall down (couldn't get stable cause of the juice). It wasn't until Glenn told me to stay low that I started catching some rides. Glenn killed it out there today.  He caught everything in sight and really rode 'em.  The waves never look as big on cam as they really are because of the camera view. I could have rode the fish today, but all is good.  I wish you could see what I see (on this last ride) looking down the line. It is so cool.

Video clip is called Orion because my neighbor told me there would be no waves today because...I don't know the moon is in Orion or some hocus pocus.  To that I say take some more astrology.  Waves were killer today

Re-Dedicated

Today marks the first day of my fifth year surfing. I've gotten fat and lazy over the past 4 years. I look at video from 4 years ago and my pop up was way better back then.  So I've decided to get in better surf shape. I've started doing these surf exercises and have started yoga again. It is unbelievable how many yoga poses lend themself to surfing.  Too many to list.


So I went to Ogunquit for my surf anniversary. I caught five waves total and had three nice ones. Of course I don't have video. Look at the picture. The black piece goes into the white piece on the board and then the camera goes into the black piece. I was all ready. Waxed my board, cleaned the bottom, charged the camera, did surf exercises this morning.....forgot the black piece. 


Anyway, had one right hand wave where I really worked it--seriously, I haven't worked a wave in a long, long time and I even did a floater at the end. I also had one left-hand (back-side) wave where I actually walked the board a little bit--I've never done that before.  I know--yeah sure Dave...where's the video. 


Hopefully I get some good video tomorrow so you don't think I'm full of bologna.

Good As New

Picked up the water hog today. Eugene is a magician. This thing was in rough shape and now it is good as new. I went out with the fish a few days ago. Eugene asked me how it went. He told me the waves were a little too small for that board. I didn't post anything because it was a lame-o session and I really didn't have any good video. Forget about Health Insurance, I need insurance for my boards.


If you look close you can see a little wedge shape piece on the board. That section was missing.