Just You Wait

I rode a sweet wave in my dreams. I was kicking it right, the wave froze, I turned left, and the wave thawed out. Anyway back to the business at hand.  I've decided no more bad sessions. With that being said, I was struggling. Caught a nice left and my leash got swamped with sea weed. Reminded me of the kelp at Topanga.

Was missing everything. There were some x-country skiers taking pictures. Alright...I'll give you a pic. Caught this right. Did a massive sweeping bottom turn. I was scootched down way low, my back hand was dragging in the wave, and I was rocking it. I even did a little kick out. So that was my day in a nut shell.

Nice Pants

So this guy (out of the blue) says, "nice pants." Well at least that's what I think he said. I'm lookin' at my pants like I have a hole or somethin. I say, "thanks." I'm still perplexed until finally I realize he said, "nice vans!"

Ice Cube says, "it was a nice day"...well it was an awful day. I had some bad influences workin' on me this morning.

Here we go again...Look what I have to contend with to hit the beach. No wonder I had a bad session.

Burnt Toast

When people come by (for the first time) they often ask, "Big Wave, you play the guitar?" And I always reply, "no, I own a guitar." Well I also own two surfboards and that's about it. Had a pathetic afternoon session. Went for one wave and it took me an hour to pop up. Did I say pathetic?

I do however play a mean didgeridoo

Sometimes You Dont

Hit the Nut again today. Been waiting all week for the waves to clean up. Pulled out the 8'0. I can barely sit on the thing let alone stand on it. Finally caught a bomb. Made the drop and starting doing a sweeping bottom turn...then I don't know what happened... I bit it hard. Going for another one, I got tossed, held under, came up for air and another crashed right on me. I may have wet my wetsuit--not sure. That was it...one and done. Gotta rest up for the afternoon session

Sometimes You Feel Like A Nut

Hit Walnut Street today. 1st time there. Mean waves, but just didn't have it. Once I fell and whacked my board twice--first my body then my head--kaboom. Got thrashed and held under. Missed two I shoulda hit. Like I said, just didn't have it. I caught one and left. Always leave on a high note.

(Pic is out front of the Serbian clan's second summer home)

A Lot Of Commotion...

in the heart of the lineup. I was paddling out and this guy was up and riding. He was coming from my right, headed straight for me. I ducked behind him in the whitewash. He gave me mad props when he came back out.

I'm up and heading left. I'm about to take out this guy who is dropping in on me. I holler whoa whoa whoa to no avail. I grab my rail and pull up over the wave. I still think my board whacked him in the head, but I guess not.

Other than that I had some pretty dope rides.

Getting Lazy...

just like my viewers. I haven't seen a comment in forever (except for Glenn's). I miss your input, but that's okay because I write for Big Wave....

Gentle Giants out there today. The paddle out was exhausting but worth it. I caught two nice lefts and one nice right where I outran the section.  The right is supposed to be easier for me being regular foot, but it isn't due to my stink bug stance. Caught a nice right though.

Here's my board. I don't even take it out of the bag anymore when I return home. As you can see I am getting lazy just like my viewers.

I'll Be Right Back

Yeah Right. So we were out bright and early. Well maybe not that early. Waves were nice but not very powerful. After a while, Glenn says, I'll be right back. Anyway...5 ridess later I start seeing some flashes, stuff bobbing, jumping...probably a duck, but I got spooked so I was gone.

They say he who travels alone travels far

What More Could You Want

It was perfect out there. Magic Dick Weed...um, I mean Sea Weed was calling for flat, flat, flat. Good thing I have my own sources, primarily my windows.  It was sick out there and I was the only one to boot. Apparently no one else has my secret source.

I was rocking waves all day. Had some cool spills as well. Caught one where I was riding the bowl and tried to swoop in with it. I swooped right onto my side--belly flop style. On another I tried to do some funky move and almost blew out my knee.  All good and all in a day's work. Keep on Rockin' in the Free World!

That's What I'm Sayin'

Can I get a Woohoo? Was struggling for a while, but so was everyone else. Then I caught this mean wave. (Ken if you're still reading I rode it from the red roof to Camp Comfort). The wave was sick and I was working it. It was my longest ride by far and it was a right. I hung out at Camp Comfort for a while thinking I'd catch a left back, but hey rights were coming. Then I popped up, went down the face way to fast, did a bottom turn and got back up high to trim the wave....Woohoo!!! It's about time!

Unleashed

Well there you have it. My leash snapped. For the third day in a row I had to go swimming after my board and yet another session ruined. Worst of all, I took an online poll and voted that I would not go shopping on Black Friday. I went and got a new leash.  Hopefully I hit something tomorrow cause there's gonna be a long dry spell coming.

Bombed At Bayview

Went out again after Turkey-Time. We went to Bayview aka Babyview thinking we'd catch something.  Like everywhere else they were crashing way too hard. We were the only two fools out there. My leash came undone and I lost my board again (I gotta look into this). Glenn nearly got crashed into the rocks. We decided enough was enough. I woulda posted this yesterday, but went to my 2nd Thanksgiving and was--Nighty Night or Laku Noc.

Getting Goofy After Getting Bombed

This is Glenn's surfmobile

That's What I Ride

Not really...I tried Noreen's August 9'4 "That's What I Ride." It's 'spose to be a Cadillac, but I couldn't drive that thing. So I pulled out my board which meant I had to paddle through the muck twice. Glenn's all gung ho. He wants to go out early every morning whether it's good or not.  Even though the time to be out there today is in the afternoon.  It's good though--he's stoked and it gets me out. Gonna try and hit it again around 2:00 when we shoulda been out in the first place.

Wished Dragana (second employee who never made it) a Happy Thanksgiving. Not sure if she knows about Thanksgiving or not.  Anyway Happy Thanksgiving to all viewers!

Peace Out!

Take Your Beating Like A Man

We got worked hard at the Ube. Halfway out my board went shooting towards shore as my leash came undone. After an hour of trying to get out we rolled. I'm teaching Glenn all of my tricks. We cruised on down to 11th Street. There was good action. Man, I'm having troubles, but think I've finally figured it out. Arch like a mofo!!!

Should have a killer pic, but neither one of us had our phones.

Just Drop-ping By

The Surfmobile was cold this morning.

I having troubles out there. Just when I was thinking it's time to get a new profession, I hit a nice left. Other than that--same ole, same ole. I'm like a beginner again.Glenn and I went out with new techniques too. We were gonna keep the bumper low to the road. Oh well.

Glenn hit his first drop today---Wooooh! and rocked a couple of others.

Low-Entry Rocker

We went to Higgins today. Caught one wave where I was working the wave and that was it. Couldn't catch anything else. I asked this young silver-haired monkey how he was catching everything without even paddling. I mean he would catch a little bubble. Anyway, he told me his board had low-entry rocker. Whatever. Plain talk...I just suck!!!

On two tries I was gonna catch a wave and this French (Bleep) would snake out front of me. I shoulda barreled his (Bleep, bleep, bleep), but I didn't. Next time I will. Looks like there's a new snake in the lineup. Maybe I should  low entry his rocker.

W(rapping) Up

Just finished washing my wetsuit from yesterday's session--which was awful. Glenn and I played the "round & round" game first going to Fortunes Rock where there was absolutely nothing. [Glenn is my new surf partner who I met a few weeks back and also lives on Seacliff]

Anyway we rolled up to Seacliff and saw "the poser's" car at the beach. This guy has a sexy long board that always rests atop his car. His car never moves and no one has ever seen him surf. Well we did and he is no poser. This guy rocks. First wave he is walking the board and hanging 10.

My session was awful. Couldn't catch anything. The waves were perfect little rollers too. Glenn, on the other hand, was rocking everything in sight. I'm glad he got some good action.  Go back and see my blog entry of April 18, 2010 titled, "Yeah" where Gerry Lopez describes the feeling of others catching a wave.

These are my cookies from the other night. Not bad for a first timer.

It's A Great Escape

Apparently that's me and Glenn heading out at Higgins. There were at least 35 people in the water and a bit congested at times. One cat had a Bob Marley board (it looked pretty dope). I caught one where I was ahead of the curl so I turned back towards the break and then turned into the face again before a little rock n roll action. Granted it was all in slow motion. I mean all those moves happened very slow.

Upon leaving this paparazzo is snapping pictures of me changing. I told her, "no pics til the spring." We're hoping for some action this afternoon--not likely, but one can hope. Tonight's agenda...Baking Sugar Cookies with Bob!

Double Dose

The waves were crashing hard all day. Unfortunately we got out about an hour too late this morning. There was simply no way out. After getting out, I was toast. It was one and done. It was a weird one too. I was up and my board was completely out of the water. Then I slapped down hard on the wave. I don't know if I wasn't angled for the wave or if my board was too long. Either way, I was done--I wasn't paddling through that war zone again.

Afternoon session was much more manageable. Caught three, but only one of note. Tomorrow should be another good day. This daylight savings (or opposite) is killing my mojo again. It gets dark way too early.

Hey Baby...

"There ain't no easy way out
and I won't back down..."

There were some good waves out there today. They lacked the power though. I hit my first drop in a long, long time so that was cool. Forecast looking good. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. What did I say, drop 50lbs? More like 60. Large and in charge.

Near Death

Chilling on the beach (watching Glenn SUP) I hear this thud right next to me. A seagull dropped a clam within five feet of me. I think he was aiming for me. Great, now I'm gonna have to start wearing a hardhat to the beach.

PS Wish I had some surfing news.

Recession/Regression

Went to Higgins tonight. There was a good crowd. I'm basically riding the white wash 'cause I can't do much else. It's like starting over. Fact of the matter is I gotta drop like 50lbs--straight up.

Thursday 'spose to be some sick overhead waves. Now we know that never happens, but one can hope. I'm getting the green board ready.

Holding Court

Big Wave in the House. As I surfed in (around) Barry...he said..."Woah Dave, really filling out that wetsuit."  Ain't that the truth.  Anyway...next wave I went right in the lion's den. A well known wave hog was going for a wave (and so was I). I had the right of way and there was no way I was backing down. They were going right and I was going left. The wave was a left so I held my ground.

Anyway, I decided...what have I been thinking....all I wanna do is surf. Didn't I already know that? What's wrong with me...

Too Weak

Phew. Just didn't have the paddling power for the afternoon session. Had trouble standing up. Just out of surfing shape. I think if you go back to the early days you'll see I had the same problem when surfing in the morning and afternoon.  Gotta get back in surfing shape.

Coming out of the water a guy asks, "did you used to play for the Orioles?" I said, "How'd you know?" and he told me the girls told him.

Shake, Rattle & Roll

I was a bit shaky out there. First attempt, I face planted right into the wave.  Second attempt..I was a little rattled and still shaky. Third attempt--Rock n' Roll Baby!

Yesterday was the day to be out (Post Sandy) but  today was good. They say it will be good this afternoon as well.  Hopefully I make it out there.

Annual Excursion

I will be making my annual excursion to Ball-Z South tomorrow...and then rip it up in Baltimore. Other than that, there is not much to report on. I will not be bringing my laptop as Mina has infected my computer with a virus. You thought I was bad at contracting viruses--the Serbians are much worse.

But how can anyone be upset with a smile like that?

Time To Catch Up

Although I've probably lost all viewers....

The season ended and we went to New Orleans. Woohoo!!! Always a good time in New Orleans. I returned with a cold and a bum elbow.  Too Bad. There were some killer waves upon my return, but I was in rough shape (to say the least).

I hope to get out surfing if the waves cooperate. I'm starting to realize I do everything for two years and then I peter out. Bowling--2 years, Yoga--2 years, Surfing--2 years. I hope to keep surfing up and get back into yoga. I will keep you posted.

Recap

Went surfing on Wednesday. Apparently my wetsuit shrunk 3 sizes. Paddling out was tough. I was afraid of the waves and my timing was way off.  Thursday, I brought Toni and George (my Bulgarian Friends) out surfing. It was their last day in Maine. Have you ever seen wounded ducks? Neither had I, until I saw these two in the water, but they had fun.

Friday I went to the hospital. I was in excruciating pain!!! I guess I have a kidney stone. Laid up all day in bed on percocet.  I once passed a kidney stone in my 20's...believe me when I tell you I fear going to the bathroom.

In true surfer fashion--Big Wave asked the doctor if he can go surfing once he passes the stone (in anticipation of good wave's on Saturday).

I woke up this morning to see over 20 people in the water with killer waves. Even though I haven't passed the stone, I couldn't let this opportunity pass me by. I rocked my best wave yet. A left. I was working the wave. Top turns, and bottom turns--it was great!

Final Day

I will miss Mina's big smile and doing Kolo with her. She is the best Kolo dancer. Plus we always make fun of Andrea's Kolo.


Andrea saying goodbye to Big Wave's and giving Big Wave's a Big Hug

 So sad...Andrea locking up shop.

Ah, but we have a Lobster Fest to attend with Fro-Becca. Fro-Becca  coined the names: Fro-Ho-Cho and Fro-Nana so she is very much a part of the team.

Boss K and Fro-Becca in a heated debate (nothing new). I think Boss K won the argument. Of course he did. Just Kidding Rebecca. Although I do think I was right.




You can't visit Maine without having a Lobster.

Andrea's First Lobster

Employee Of The Day

Employee of The Day

This is how we pump the product

 Had to bring in some more help. Check out Deena's first Fro-Ho-Cho. Wooooo!!!  If you wanna push the Fro-Ho-Cho, you need sexy girls. Guaranteed Seller!

 What's This...Andrea is teaching Deena the Kolo Dance. She doesn't have this sort of patience with Boss K.

Classic Kolo (Horsey Style)

Sick As A Dog

It's hard to sell Ice Cream when you top salesperson is all bundled up. Wearing capris wrapped with two beach blankets, two sweatshirts, and a beanie.  Poor Dockay is sick as a dog and still smiling!!!!

Yoooooooo!!!!

Amusement

Big Wave and Jelena enjoying the rides. I can't even tell you what we were yelling at Toni. It was not very family friendly.

Check out Toni's masterpiece. Pizza with ketchup, relish, and mayonnaise. Did I tell you these Bulgarians are crazy?

Looks to be good waves Tue, Wed, Thur! I haven't been out since March (I think). Bringing Andrea, Ivan, and Mina. Boss K is getting stoked!!!

Super Boss K

Watch out! Be careful, Boss K has ties with the Russian Mafia. Besides, when push comes to shove...Dun, Dun, Dun...Super Boss K to the rescue.

Serendipity

Over the past week, I have been asked, on three separate occasions, "How is your Fro-Ho-Cho compared to Serendipity's?" I have responded, "Well Serendipity is the Original and I'm sure that mine doesn't compare, but mine is half the price."

Each customer has said...."Wow, way better!!!" That's right...Big Wave in the House!

Did I mention Dockay in the House?  Nice Skirt!

Happy Birthday Andrea

Yesterday...

Birthday Crepe

Miss America

Crazy Serbians/Bulgarians

Peace Out

Birthday Girl

It's Andrea's Birthday today. Oh look--so happy. She's stylin' with Mina in the Presidential. Mina was Big Wave's employee of the day (she works for the competition, but couldn't resist working at the hottest joint in OOB). Andrea is working hard to become employee of the week.

Rollin'

Money Maker down for another 4 hrs today--not good. Finally got up and running. Phew!!!  Boss K rollin' into town on his new wheels. No nonsense. I don't fool around.

I scream, You scream

It's hard to sell ice cream when your ice cream machine is broken. Well that was the story yesterday. Hopefully (with a little love) she'll be up and running today.


Here's Andrea with Caesar....

Today's Action

Another Perfect Fro-Ho-Cho

Tough Boss K

Teaching Samantha the Kolo Dance

Getting Goofy

Boss K and Dockay getting goofy in the shack. We got to listen to the Salvation Army (music) all week. Our favorite songs were: "Aleluy, Aleluy" and "Barbe A Papa, Barbe A Papa" We will certainly miss the music.

I don't know if Andrea is representin' the West Coast or East Coast.  Either way, she's kickin' it hardcore while Boss K is workin' the double chin and sportin' Eazy E shades.


Check out this mad cloud!!!

Abysmal

Killer waves this morning. I woke up to see people rockin' 'em. What a lousy predicament I am in. I'm loosing money every day, I live in a pig sty because I have no storage in my shack, I have no time to do laundry, I work 16 hours a day (for nothing), I have no food in my house and I slave away. What a huge mistake.  Everyday is the same. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. Well--the clock is ticking and pretty soon there will be no more tomorrows...

Time to get ready for tomorrow.

Crepes

 Boss K working the Crepe Factory. Sergei looks worried. He doesn't want me to ruin their brand. Ivan finds my methods humorous. Ah, but Andrea enjoyed the finished product. I think Boss K adds too much flare.