Field Trip

House on right was my marker

Went to the Wall (NH) today. It had a stellar forecast! Don't believe the hype. Not as good as predicted, but still very, very good and very clean. I hit 61.5% of the waves I went for (8 out of 13) all lefts (backside) except for two. Today, I was the Hunter. On three rides I paddled out cause I saw the wave rising, turned real quick, took a couple of paddles and I was up and riding. I was real aggressive out there today. Like I said, I was the Hunter (usually I'm the hunted). I caught two steep drops which were cool. My board was planing out of the water (felt like just the tail was in the water). When I popped up, it couldn't help but go down--and down it did. Save the best for last--caught a mean left and it was time to go.

There was one guy out there who had a motor on his board. He never had to paddle out and when a wave was gonna close on him, he just hit the motor. I was talking to a couple of kids from Quebec after and we determined that the motor isn't really surfing.

Ladies Tee

Reports looked good for Ogunquit so we headed South. Once there we saw about 10 shortboarders ripping it. Ogunquit has a tight take off spot so I really didn't wanna go out cause we'd just be in the way. I asked a guy if he thought Kennebunk was working and he told us we could go out on the Ladies Tee (2nd peak). Glad we did.  Glenn caught a sweet ride right off the bat. He was coming right toward me so I saw the whole ride. I caught one going the other way--almost identical ride. We each had some good action today.  I think we coulda played the black tees.

Back To The Bunk

Hit Gooch's Beach again today. Not good like yesterday...or maybe BWD just not good. Had a couple of white water junk to the right and a flailing left (serious kookville). Noreen had a good session and I'm super-stoked for her. She caught some really nice rides!!!

It Only Takes One

So we hit the Bunk today. Right out of the gate Glenn gets the stink eye from a wave hog. A bunch of aggressive locals out there. This wave, like Ogunquit, looks small when approaching and grows real quick. Major adjustment for Big Wave on this type of wave. Had a bunch of bad attempts and goofy pops, but then...I was in the right position, angling for take-off. I'm up, have a nice drop, bottom turn--now I'm trimming high on the face, swoop down for another bottom turn and then ride it out. It only takes one to get the juices flowing. It also has been a long time since I've caught a real wave.

Going Backwards

Big Wave is getting worse and worse. At least I didn't have any knee rides today, so I guess slight progress. One was a pop and flop. I popped-up and flopped. And about an hour later I finally caught a wave--yippee. I popped-up and went left for a little baby ride. That was it. I did decide however....no more custom board. I'm gonna get a water hog. When I get that bad boy, watch out!

Hypnosis

I gotta go see a hypnotist. I know what I'm doing and yet I continue to do it. Five knee rides--pathetic!!! Only really attempted two--I mean where I actually popped up. One I went head over heels and on the other I made a nice little drop going left but couldn't hold on. I think I needed to grab the rail to hold it tight.

Anyway, here's a pic of today's action. This is from the 6th floor and the waves are bigger than they look. That's still no excuse for my mental block.

(Update 1/2 hr later) I just got off the phone with 2 surf shops. They think I'm having trouble adjusting to one and a half feet less board. Maybe so. There's an 8 year old girl about to go out by herself (parents on the beach watching) I bet she's gonna rip it. I gotta go watch her.

No Business

I had no business being out there. With that being said, I paddled out no problem and went for a bomb. Shoulda hit it, but somehow, someway I've gotten into this bad habit of going to my knees on big waves. I guess I've gotten scared between here and there. I've gotta break this habit--never use to do it.  Once on my knees, I'm killing myself for not popping up. This wave woulda been so dope and I chickened out! After that there was no way getting back out. I'll get ready for the afternoon. This was at high tide and it should be pumping all day.

(One Hour Later) I think I've figured it out. I don't have my longboard so I'm not looking down a plank when I'm getting ready to pop-up. Instead I'm looking down the wave. No security blanket. "I don't need no security, I just need me some peace."

Right Frame Of Mind (Doesn't Mean Jack)

Present From Bali. Quiksilver Monkey

Surf was so sweet yesterday--all day long. Unfortunately I missed it 'cause I was in a 5 hour-long booored meeting. I knew there would be remnants today so I got mentally prepared. I watched a lot of tutorials, basically a refresher course. I was all geared up.  Went to Higgins. Conditions were super glassy.  I saw everyone clustered way over to the right so I paddled out there. Next thing I know, I was practically swept to Scarborough Beach and at one point I was dangerously close to some rocks. I think I may have caught my four worst waves ever. On one I hit the drop and, I dunno, forgot to make a bottom turn. I think I figured out that while most people need to be in spot X--Big Wave (so big right now--or at least for the board he's riding) needs to be in spot W. I went for one where I popped up but lost balance. I continued to watch the wave and it just went on forever and ever--I was very upset and bummed. I would say this wave went on for 100 yards or so???

Upon leaving I saw Ivers (my favorite Higgins surfer--I like his style) and he told me it was all gouged up. I'm not exactly sure what that means. Then I stuck around to watch Ivers catch a few waves. Guys started ripping it.  Ironically they were all on longboards. One guy was up trimming the wave. I don't think I've ever seen someone up so high and tight to the wave--he was riding the edge the whole way and this guy was paddling out--kaboom--a nasty collision. It was obviously the paddler's fault. He should have tucked in behind the surfer and eaten some white water. God knows Big Wave has to do this all the time.

Worst Student Yet

Not much action today. I've been telling Mark for a long time that I'd bring him surfing. Today was the day. Perfect for learning. First things first, I had to go steal Noreen's foam board. She has a nice little quiver: a 9'4"foam board, a 7'2", an 8'0", a 9'0", a 9'4", and a SUP.

After the first attempt, Mark said, "I'm tired, I'm done." I mean I pulled him out and pushed him in. I don't know how he coulda been tired. He's a real trouper though. He can't swim and he went out in the ocean on Thanksgiving and Christmas--Fool. And he gave it a shot today. Just upset that I didn't get him up and riding. Maybe next time. He did, however, have the obligatory beverage after his session. So he got the full experience.

You Down Wit O.G.T

Got Some Day Glo Wax

Yeah you know me. Hit Ogunquit, but didn't have as much success as last time there. That wave is so tricky for me. I mostly rode white water (blaah!). There was one guy who rode some white water and was hooting and hollering. It must have been his first time so I was stoked for him.  I caught a couple where I was on the green wave, but nothing special. I did a ton of paddling and really felt it in my shoulders. Noticed a big stress crack in the nose of my board. I can't buy a break right now. While changing I was chatting with an old timer who gave me a lot of good advice. So all was not lost.

Kiddy Land

It's amazing how the waves can go from being so big one day to so small the next. Last night the waves sounded like houses were crashing down. So I went out and played in the nursery school playground.  It woulda been alright if I had a long board. I know, I sound like a broken record. I'm gonna have one custom-made (shaped) for me this summer, but I just don't have the extra cabbage right now so--until then I'll just continue to try with my funboard. If nothing else, I think it's gonna improve my paddling power. One can only hope.

Overhead Drop

So I decided to do a pre-surf exercise routine today. I'm gonna try and incorporate this before every session. Nothing major just some stretches, pop-ups, indo board etc.  Went to Higgins where the waves were good size(d). There was about 30 of us out there and even though we were scattered throughout it still felt like we were all clumped together. I went for one--I was up on the top of the wave. I had to really lean in/down. I made the drop on an overhead wave. That got the juices flowing.  It was tricky to slice through the other surfers when going for a wave (at least it was in my head).

Now I'm about to grab my best wave. I'm angled left, I'm gliding in the wave, I'm about to pop-up, I look to my right and a guy is up on the wave so I had to pull out--major bummer. I had this thing so lined up.  Next one I'm over the falls. Then I miss a couple 'cause I'm afraid of the rocks dead ahead of me. I scoot over so the rocks are out of play. Last ride of the day--I pop-up, lean in, make a head high drop (maybe higher) do a backside bottom turn and ride it home.

One Thing's For Certain

I need to get another longboard. Everyone caught waves today but me. Even the guy in the kayak crew is ripping it up right now in mush. The right board for the right wave. My 8'0 is definitely not right for mush. It wasn't yesterday and it wasn't today. That's why you need a quiver!  Oh yeah, so much for the week-long of good waves. Just not the case (but that's DickWeed for ya).

Double Play

The waves looked good at Higgins but they were mush. I am pretty good at telling if the wave is gonna be a right or left. "Clowns to the left of me, jokers to the right, here I am, stuck in the middle..." That's where I was on every wave--in the middle with the wave breaking towards me from both sides. It was junk

Scoreboard
Higgins 1, Big Wave 0

You Win Some You Lose Some

Well I lost today. Glenn had a good session. I mean I got up 5 times, but I didn't do any sufing. Glenn implemented this new paddle technique. I'm calling it the wounded duck, he calls it the double deuce. It worked out well for him. I may try this technique. Hoping to get two more sessions in today. The waves should be working all day.

Scoreboard
11th Street 1, Big Wave 0.

Scopin' Things Out

Noreen's Surfmobile--Loaded

We knew today was gonna be the day so we loaded up early and headed out around 7:00. Checked Fortunes. We've been going there a little before high tide but have determined it's more of a mid-tide spot. Moving on...since we've been jonesin' we went to Doc Browns. We were scopin' this place out. It's another high-tide spot and more importantly a point break. Man, the waves were so sweet--just peeling. We would've liked to get in, but there's a lot of rocks so we need to do some more scopin', specifically at low tide so we can see the lay of the land--particularly where all the rocks are.  I can't wait to hit this spot though.

Higgins Beach is on the way back so of course we were gonna do some more scopin' even though we know it's a low to incoming-tide spot. What's going on....Higgins is working at high tide--sweet. I mean I've seen this before, but not that common. Anyway, I caught 8 out of 10. A good session. My last ride I hit the drop, cruised a bit, out ran the section (that's where there's a patch of breaking white water in front of you), got back on the face, and  did a little top turn, bottom turn combo.

Major Withdrawal

Those Are Some Sticky Bumps

It's been rough since my last time out. Flat, flat, and flat again tomorrow. Saturday should be pumping and good for a whole week (keeping fingers crossed).  I've been reading up on tube riding--not that I'll get there again, but it looks like I started out doing things right. Angled take-off, tight to the wave, and deep in the pocket. I just cleaned off my board and re-waxed it. I know this sounds stupid, but it was my best wax job yet. In part, because I got some basecoat wax. It's tuff to find at the local shops, but it is so critical. Basically just getting geared up for Saturday.  Oh, I also filed down my fins to sit flush.

Super Stoked

First off I had to hit the surf shop. My board hasn't had any bite to it. I had to get some new fins. Basically, they give you the cheapest fins with a board and mine had no hold. When I walked into the shop, Mark (shop owner) asked me if I've been anywhere exotic lately. It was pretty cool especially since I haven't seen him in a long time.  He remembers my Hawaiian and Californian adventures. I told him yeah, "I'm about to hit the Rivermouth."  I surfed the Main Beach in Ogunquit before, but never the Rivermouth.  So I got these mean new fins. I need to file them down so they sit flush in the fin box (as you can see they are raised a bit).

The wave was tough for me to negotiate at first. It's very much like Malibu where it looks like nothing and jacks up on you at the last second. Much different than what I am use to in OOB and Higgins which tend to linger forever. Missed a few at first--getting use to the wave. Then I caught a left, still feeling out the wave. I grab a right where I was so deep in the pocket. I have never been that deep before. I was just cruising and checking out the curl. On the next one (I don't know how to describe it) I got semi-tubed. I  know that's not a term, but that's what I'm calling it. I was deep in the pocket again and the wave was rolling over my head. I scooted down a bit and then the wave crashed/closed hard on me. It was so cool.  After the ride I yelled, "Yeah!!!"

I went back to the surf shop to get advice on how to really get tubed when I'm in that situation.  The guy said, "see it's the fins." I think it was more the wave, but maybe they helped me stay deeper in the wave. Then he told me to scoot down real low and then transfer my weight forward to shoot out. I can't wait to get full on barreled!

No Foolin' Here

"He travels the fastest who travels alone."  Just make sure you're not traveling with a kayaker and three surfers. This crew is always out at the wrong time. Caught a mean left where I was hummin'. Then I was caught up in the curl with no exit as it was quickly approaching the shore. I couldn't kick out. Basically I was trapped in the curl so I did a dive bomb before it closed hard. My board went crashing and I thought for sure I was gonna break this one too. Ain't that the truth Holmes--no foolin'