Nice & Quiet

Tonight the madhouse turned into a funhouse. There were only 5 of us in the water. The waves weren't as big, but they were decent. Had a couple good rides. My hair didn't even get wet. If I wasn't going bald, I think I would grow dreads. Maybe I'll just bleach my hair.

Home Schoolin'

Stayed home today. Was not going to the same madhouse as yesterday. Caught some nice bumps and worked a couple waves. Long lulls, but glassy!

Dawn Patrol

I woke up this morning by catching a wave at 6 am. Invigorating! Just a few months ago I would have been hitting the snooze button at that hour. Headed to the beach, I couldn't see the ocean. I saw a woman going in and asked if we would be able to see and she said sure. Once I paddled out through that haze, I saw about 30 surfers. I was going after a sick wave, about to pop up and some guy is paddling out right in front of me (major no-no) I had to bail.

Went out again at 5 pm. Way too crowded. I only surfed one wave. Bunch of Kooks out there. Once I grabbed a sweet wave and rode it on my belly like a boogie board--again I couldn't pop up 'cause of some clown. It was an incredible boogie board ride though. Coming in, I was tempted to paddle in, but rode the wave to shore on my belly.

Check out this clip of Lieutenant Colonel Kilgore from "Apocalypse Now." In the midst of war, all he wants to do is surf. I'm telling you, surfing is powerful.

Jam Packed

It was very crowded at Higgins tonight. It's amazing how many surfers don't know proper etiquette. It seemed like every wave was a party wave (not good). I caught a few nice rides--I think I'm starting to get better at this gig.

Fred indicates that we are hiking Tuckerman Ravine on Friday. The Chocorua hike wiped me out--I was out of commission all day Saturday.

NASCAR

First off, a big shout out to Mark Francoeur who hooked us up with sweet seats and passes to the Coca-Cola hospitality tent!!!

Imagine going to Fenway Park, driving up and parking out front of Gate A on Yawkey Way for Free. Bring all the pop you want into the game. Bring your own food. Some people take a puff here and there. When the game is over, go back to your car on Yawkey, pull out a grill and start cooking. Have a few more pops. All good, right? Well that's NASCAR. The best spectator sport, bar none!


I should have better pics but the Rednecks/Hillbillies have never seen an iphone. The were stumped.

Chocorua

Went hiking with Fred today. He is crazy mad! He tells me that Chocorua is a warmup for our next hike--Tuckerman which is a prelude to Katadhin. Did I mention crazy mad?

Signs

"Signs, signs, everywhere there's signs
Blockin' up the scenery, breakin' my mind
Do this, don't do that, can't you read the sign"

I did really well tonight. There was this guy right next to me, I asked, "you gonna grab this one?" He said, "no, it's yours." I was pearling (which would have bit) but I salvaged it and got a good ride--phew. Twice, I trimmed the wave where I was actually looking at the face. I practiced the mechanics of the turn in my living room last night (shoulders, hips and push the back leg all at once).

Almost every time out someone asks, "what size is your board?" Kinda of like a dis. Who cares right? But tonight the guy said, "I need to pick up a longer board."

Flustered

Caught a couple dozen waves today. When leaving the beach a cop was waiting for me and asked if I knew the surfing restrictions. I told him don't drop in on someone's wave. He told me no surfing from 11am to 5pm. Pfff, Surfing's not a crime. I should get a skateboard and tear up his sidewalks!!!

I was so flustered, while talking to a couple of guys going out, I looped my key the wrong way twice when trying to get it out of my wetsuit. I drove to the surf shop with my key attached to my suit (that's a big key chain). I had to cut the string to get my key off. My suit is now with the seamstress getting a new stretchy string. I went for the express service so I can catch the waves tomorrow.

No Waves, No Problem

My brother tells me that he saw me on the news at surfing day. I know a reporter wanted to interview me, but I don't talk to the media...well I mean I talked to her 'cause she was a cutie (but not for the paper). When I was taking my S.U.P. lesson, they said it was like riding a bike. I don't think so.

I picked up my bike from the shop today. I haven't ridden in years and I didn't miss a beat. I rode the Eastern Trail to Higgins (It is part of a larger trail system that goes from Calais, ME to Key West, FL). I was going at a pretty good clip. I passed at radar sign for cars and it read 21mph. I don't know it seemed pretty good to me.

My sit bones are probably gonna be sore tomorrow. I'd better not get a diaper rash--that's all I would need. Well just got back from my ride and now off to yoga. Yeah, I'm gonna be toast. The teacher is gonna be all over me!

Do you know what day it is?

Well yeah it's Father's Day, but it is also the 6th Annual International Surfing Day.

It was posted online as being from 6-10am. There was one other guy out there with me and he bolted for Kennebunk. So I went out and caught some waves for a couple of hours. "Wait, what do I see?" Some people start setting up and all these surfers start arriving at 9 o'clock. I'm told the local Surf-Riders Foundation changed the hours, making it 9-11am.

The guy who bolted for Kennebunk showed up again. We took free S.U.P (stand up paddle) lessons. Yeah right....IM-POSS-IBLE. I'm glad I didn't go to a surf camp that split time between surfing and S.U.P. as a lot of them do.

Even Better

Finally the waves came in tonight but even better than that...

Deena aka Popham rolled into town this afternoon. We were just hangin on the beach and explaining to her mother how chill yoga is. One thing led to another.

Reluctant at first, Deena got in the water and gave surfing a shot. She's a natural. She got up and rode the very first wave she went after. She caught four waves altogether. And like a true surfer she didn't paddle in. Hell no, she rocked the last wave all the way home!!!

You should have seen the look in her eyes! I am still catching a sweet vibe from her session. If you wanna know what I'm talkin about read Gerry Lopez' quote from the blog entry titled, "Yeah!!!" posted on April 18th

Sea Dogs

Tyler, my neighbor, was up from CT and we went to the Sea Dogs game tonight. If you know Tyler, you know he is a great guy, but he is challenged when it comes to taking photos with an iphone. We had seats right behind third base.

There was a foul coming our way and Tyler plays a lot of competitive baseball so I was gonna let him grab it and he also backed off the ball. The ball plunked right off of my seat and bounced to a little kid. I'm glad the kid got the ball.

The Sea Dogs won in extra innings!

Sidelined

I've been out of action for the past few days. I have developed a serious wetsuit rash. I think (pretty sure) I am allergic to neoprene. I even called O'Neill, the wetsuit inventor, and described my situation. They are looking into it for me. I gave my wetsuit a nice long bath in baby shampoo last night.

The next best thing. Since there is no surfing for me, I enjoyed some surf...a nice lobster bake with my neighbors this afternoon. I have one area on my lower stomach (the size of my palm) that looks like a cooked crustacean...I will spare you the pics.

The good news is that there have been no waves. I just want to treat things properly and be ready for the big action coming in on Saturday.

Sharks

Two 12' Sharks were spotted off of the York coast yesterday by the Coast Guard.
Coast Guard: Sharks seen off York Beach, Maine - Sunday, Jun. 13, 2010
I woke up to this story on the news at 6 am so I was a little freaked. I mean do I look like food? I'm not surfing unless there are other people in the water. Surfers say you don't need to outswim the shark--just the other surfers.

Peace

This is little Avery at the Relay For Life walk last night. She walked a bit before settling into this comfy little buggy.


Samantha had a piano recital today. She played Hoppy Toad, Hop and The Bullfrog Song. This girl has many talents.



Welcome to my humble abode.

"Peace. It does not mean to be in a place where there is no noise, trouble or hard work. It means to be in the midst of those things and still be calm in your heart." - unknown

Alright, time to go catch some waves...Peace!

Rockin'

Today the sets were few and far between and worth the wait. When they came, they were chest high. I only caught four waves but they were my best four yet. I rocked every one. One ride I hit the drop, rode the wave, the wave reformed and I hit the drop again (twice on one wave)! My last ride I hit the drop, trimmed the wave and rode it all the way to shore. Today I was a surfer!


Training is Draining (pic staged). That's my old adage from work. Hour Glass is opening on Monday and I went in to help them out with the computer program.


Last night I went to visit my neighbors and crashed on their couch within 5 minutes of being there.

Go with your gut

I went to Higgins and asked a guy how it was out there. He told me not to waste my time. So I played the merry-go-round game. Actually it was the carousel game 'cause I was going counter clockwise. Went to Ogunquit and Wells only to end up back at Higgins. By listening to this guy that's what I did--waste my time. I don't know what he needs for waves, but I know what I need and I should have just stayed put.

I've reported of catching ankle bitters, well today I met Buddy, the chihuahua, a real ankle bitter.


Again today, another neighbor told me that she has never seen me so relaxed. Honestly, although only a part-time yogi, I think the relaxed state comes from letting go of the ego. Really!

All of my retired friends loved the "Well you can stick your nine to five livin'..." from yesterdays blog. I think that's funny!!!

Popham & Reid

As I was leaving for work this morning, I saw this guy all dressed up and wearing a blue tooth. I couldn't help but think to myself,

"Well you can stick your nine to five livin'
And your collar and your tie
You can stick your moral standards
'Cause it's all a dirty lie
You can stick your golden handshake
And you can stick your silly rules
And all the other (bleep)
That you teach to kids in school
'Cause I ain't no fool"

I went to Popham Beach. I only caught a few 'cause I had to paddle out really far to get to the break and quite honestly, I was scared. I have been seeing a lot of shows on sharks lately. Yesterday a surfer in Australia got attacked by a shark. Surfers look like seals, sea lions and turtles to sharks.

I then decided to go to Reid State Park. On my way to Reid I passed an auction house that I use to go to with my mom when I was young. I use to work the concession stand. Anyway, I missed the tide at Reid--it's a high tide spot and I was there at low tide. It was a nice beach though.

Yeah, if I get eaten by a shark then I guess I would be the fool.

Civic Duty

I was up at the crack of dawn, ate breakfast and the next thing I know I'm eating dinner. I guess I was fatigued as I did not go to sleep it just happened. Look at my goofy eyes. I am literally still waking up--I hope I voted for the right person.

Trim

If there is magic on the planet, it is contained in the water - Loren Eiseley

I was awoken this morning by my neighbor, Fred, outdoorsman/adventurer, who told me we were kayaking the Scarborough Marshes tonight. I've been kayaking in the past with Fred to Bluff Isle, Stratton Isle, Negro Isle and Wood's Isle. Hopefully we will hike Mount Chocorua soon as last year's hike got postponed.

With no time to spare, I hit Old Orchard so I could be home in time for the kayak trip. I trimmed the wave for the first time--definitely cause for celebration!

The marshes were awesome. They are vast. They snake around seemingly endless. On the way home, Fred showed me the Eastern Trail, an 80 mile bike path from Kittery to South Portland. I actually live on the Eastern Trail (who knew). Next adventure set--bike off road from the marshes to Higgins Beach.

Way Cool

A little drizze turned into a massive downpour. Then came the thunder boomers followed by lightning. I asked the dude next to me if it was safe to be out there and he said, "rubber is an insulator." True to form, I listen to and follow bad logic. The water was like rolling hills that just kept coming and coming.

I had to stall out of the only decent ride I had because another guy caught it much deeper.
On another attempt, my cord was all caught up and I did a belly flop right on my board--it was actually pretty funny. While waiting to catch my final wave, I tried to do Sukhasana on my board--no dice.

I now listen to Classical music to and fro. It is very peaceful and good for reflection.

Dedication

First I met the wedding party at the beach. The girls are thrilled to be on the blog. Then it was time to hit the surf. I have a pattern forming where I do alright in the beginning, pretty awful after that, then I suck it up and catch a good one in. I think I am due for a few more lessons.

When I was walking to the surfmobile some kid rolls in riding a BMX type bike with one hand and holding his surfboard with the other. I told him, "that's dedication." I wish I had my cam 'cause it was definitely blog worthy. Driving home, I see the wedding party outside the chapel.

Classic Pose

"Don't let me hear you say life's taking you nowhere, angel...
Look at that sky, life's begun
Nights are warm and the days are young"

Life has been taking me to Beach Ave, Shore Rd, Ocean Ave, Ocean Blvd, Beach St...
Nights are warm and the days are young!!!

Most memorable wave of the day was when my hand slipped off the rail during the pop up and my face smacked the board.

Brutal

I listened to Johann Sebastian Bach's Concerto No. 2 on on the way out to set the mood and feel the calmness. What do they say about the best laid plans? I caught a dozen or so waves but did nothing special. I got rocked by the waves. You can only turtle so much. I was taking waves in the face. My board got thrashed. At one point, I thought my leash snapped. On the way home, I listened to some kick a** Rock 'n Roll to truly appreciate the beating I took.

Haze

I went to three spots today. They all had good waves but zero visibility. Hopefully things will clear up for an afternoon or evening session.

Is that even possible?

Today someone told me that I was "too relaxed". I don't know if that is even possible. If it is, I guess it would be when I am lying on the beach catching rays in Savasana. That's pretty relaxing.

Back to Work

"This ain't no party, this ain't no disco, this ain't no foolin' around..." that was this past weekend. Today, it was back to work. Hit Higggins and it was nice to get back out there after the Holiday Weekend. There was only one other guy out there with me--it was really cool. He stayed at one side and I was at the other. I could go after and catch whatever I wanted. I was hitting drops until they turned into white water. Ideally, I would wanna turn and trim the wave. I had some good practice working on turns and it was fun out there today.