I woke up this morning by catching a wave at 6 am. Invigorating! Just a few months ago I would have been hitting the snooze button at that hour. Headed to the beach, I couldn't see the ocean. I saw a woman going in and asked if we would be able to see and she said sure. Once I paddled out through that haze, I saw about 30 surfers. I was going after a sick wave, about to pop up and some guy is paddling out right in front of me (major no-no) I had to bail.
Went out again at 5 pm. Way too crowded. I only surfed one wave. Bunch of Kooks out there. Once I grabbed a sweet wave and rode it on my belly like a boogie board--again I couldn't pop up 'cause of some clown. It was an incredible boogie board ride though. Coming in, I was tempted to paddle in, but rode the wave to shore on my belly.
Check out this clip of Lieutenant Colonel Kilgore from "Apocalypse Now." In the midst of war, all he wants to do is surf. I'm telling you, surfing is powerful.
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