It's A Long Day When...

The morning swell doesn't hit. Good thing it came for an evening session. All shortboarders at Higgins tonight. I fear the shortboards (since nearly getting my head chopped off at Lowers) because I don't know which way they are gonna take off when I'm paddling out. One guy told me, "don't worry, I'm not an angry surfer." There's a way cooler vibe out here! It's funny because many of the guys I see in Old Orchard (really good surfers too) don't go to Higgins because they're sorta intimidated. Fortunately for me I have gone there from the beginning, so I'm kind of a local at both spots.

I was gonna stay out longer, but I had a really nice ride at the end and decided to call it a day. My hand was dragging on the face of the wave. You're supposed to do this to slow down. I did it for no reason. I was just low and rockin' the wave--it just felt right.