It was a tough paddle today. Got up on a steep wave and actually stayed up. Didn't do much 'cause the wave was closing out, but it felt real good going down (like floating).
As much as I wanna walk the board, I gotta learn to kick out. This will allow me to pull out the backside of a wave before it closes. By doing so, I won't have to paddle through all the junk.
Yeah it was a short session, but hey...it was a session and I had a couple good ones!
Happy Halloween
11 years ago
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