Share The Road

Thursday May 12th (blogger was down yesterday)

Big Wave lived up to his name yesterday. Hit a couple big waves. Actually a wave must be at least 20 feet to be considered a big wave. It was fun paddling over good-sized incoming waves and falling down the back. I was out in a hardcore lineup--way outside. Caught my first ride which was, I know--hard to believe, my best. It was awesome. Almost back to the lineup a shortboarder takes off. I have to bury myself in the whitewash which brings me all the way back in.

Paddling back out a stand-up paddler signals me. I guess a set must be coming so I hold tight. After seeing nothing I continue paddling. Again nearly to the lineup a shortboarder takes off and is real ticked at me. Had I not paused 'cause of the SUP I woulda been out there no problem. So I grabbed the next wave in--also a real good one. Then I took off. These shortboarders are crazy. I mean WTF! I had to bail on a ride when one was in my way. Share the Road.

That's the problem with a beach break. At least in California there was a clear zone to paddle out. Not so at Higgins. People are taking off all over the place.